Friday, February 2, 2018

The Fight Continues: An Interview With ACLU Deputy Legal Director Cecillia Wang

It both feels like a century ago and like it was yesterday—but here in America, this weekend marks the one year anniversary (or thereabouts) of President Trump’s absurdly unconstitutional attempt to ban Muslim immigrants from seven countries from entering the United States. In response to the attempted Muslim ban, more than 800 cafes across the United States joined us in an organized fundraiser to support the American Civil Liberties Union, whose legal actions in response to the Muslim ban helped strike the whole thing down in court. Together those cafes, alongside several other coffee companies and industry leaders, raised more than $400,000 for the ACLU, united under the twin banners of #RefugeesWelcome and #YesEqual inspired by coffee’s capacity for moral and civic leadership.

Our friends at the ACLU are so grateful for this work—not just for the financial contribution, which directly helped fund their travel and organizational efforts opposing the ban, but for the community support. They, too, are coffee drinkers—it’s a bunch of lawyers, after all!—and for ACLU staff and partners to see such overwhelming support at the cafe level during this time of crisis was incredibly meaningful for all involved.

Cecillia Wang. Photo: ACLU/Molly Kaplan ©2014 ACLU All Rights Reserved

Cecillia Wang is a deputy legal director at the National ACLU, and she’s worked previously as director of the Immigrants’ Rights Project. Wang was directly involved in the ACLU’s response to the initial Muslim ban, and has worked tirelessly over the last year to continue to oppose the ban and its many revisions. She’s also a coffee lover—make her a pour-over, please—and had the unique experience of seeing the outpouring of support from cafes across the San Francisco Bay Area, where she’s based, when stopping in for coffee to and from her work with ACLU National.

When the ACLU gave us the opportunity to speak with Cecillia Wang about the events of last year, and her work over the last 12 months, we absolutely jumped at the opportunity. The below interview does include talk of coffee, but only briefly; if you’re part of the “Stick to coffee, Sprudge” crowd, this might not be the feature for you. (We have a nice “Coffee at the Puppy Bowl” story you may prefer instead.) But for us it’s meaningful to give over these pages today to someone actively fighting the good fight with the ACLU, on behalf of immigrants and allies everywhere.

We’ll be organizing more work with the ACLU in 2018 as part of our bi-annual Night of 1000 Pours initiative. More info coming soon—watch this space. In the meantime, thank you to everyone who participated in last year’s ACLU fundraising work, including all 800+ cafes and dozens more companies who supported this work. Cecillia Wang says it best in the interview below. “We feel so supported by what cafes and local cafe communities have done over the past year,” she tells Sprudge co-founder Jordan Michelman. “It makes such a big difference, and we are incredibly grateful to have that partnership.”

The feeling is mutual.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity. 

Jordan Michelman: Hello Cecillia Wang, and thanks so much for speaking with us today on the anniversary of the 2017 ACLU coffee fundraiser. By way of introduction, can you let us know a bit about what your role is with the ACLU?

Cecillia Wang: Sure. I am one of three deputy legal directors at the National ACLU, and my issue areas include immigrants’ rights, voting rights, speech, privacy and technology, as well as human rights and national security. I help to oversee our program work in those issue areas and connect our litigation with our other kinds of advocacy, including legislative advocacy or communications work, so that we’re on track to meet our goals. I’m also the former director of the Immigrants’ Rights Project, and I still oversee that project. On the Muslim ban in particular, I’ve been on a legal team and argued the case in front of the US Court of Appeals for the Fourth Circuit, just a few weeks ago on December 8th.

Michelman: Wow. That’s all pretty remarkable. Set the scene for us last year: what were you doing in advance of the attempted Muslim ban?

Wang: Well, we were still waiting to see what President Trump would come out with. He had just been inaugurated, and prior to the first version of his Muslim ban—it was issued on January 27 of 2017—so prior to that we were anticipating some kind of move not only to ban Muslims from immigrating to the United States but also, more broadly, to restrict immigration, to go after immigrant communities around the country in all the ways that he promised to as a candidate.

Even before he was inaugurated, we were ready. We had put in some pieces, put kind of a plan in place to respond to the president’s anti-immigrant, anti-Muslim agenda and also to push pro-immigrant and pro-integration, pro-equality measures around the country on the state and local level as well as on the national level.

Michelman: Okay, so jump to January 27, 2017—the ban comes out, in a pretty haphazard fashion, and the ACLU springs into action. What was that moment like inside the organization? Take us there.

Wang: Okay. On January 27, 2017, to take us back a year, we knew that the president was going to issue something on Muslim immigration among the first things he did in office. Just two days previously, January 25th, he’d issued two really broad ranging executive orders on immigration, one that focused on border enforcement, one that focused on interior enforcement, so we were already responding to those two executive orders. We got word on Friday the 27th that he was going to issue something on the Muslim ban.

As you may recall, reporters actually got a copy of the original executive order before anyone else did because it was leaked, so there was chaos. It came out around 4:30 in the afternoon on a Friday, January 27th, and we were immediately scrambling to read it as quickly as possible. We were anticipating that we might immediately see people being turned away at the airports. We worked with our partner organizations like the International Refugee Assistance Project, which ended up identifying a few people, including Hameed Khalid Darweesh, who were scheduled to land at JFK Airport in New York that evening. We immediately went to work with the Yale Law School Clinic students, with IRAP and with the National Immigration Law Center in order to start preparing legal papers in case Mr. Darweesh was turned away and in case others were being turned away.

From there, it’s almost like a minute by minute scenario. So many things were happening minute by minute starting as soon as the executive order was leaked on the late afternoon of January 27th. That night lawyers were at the airports waiting to see if Mr. Darweesh and others would be coming in or not. They were initially blocked from coming in, so we worked overnight to file a habeas petition for writ of habeas corpus, which is the form of lawsuit that you file when the federal government has custody over someone illegally. We got that on file early in the morning on Saturday, January 28th.

Meanwhile, we were of course seeing then by the time Saturday rolled around that there were other people, countless people really, who were trying to get in at airports around the country who were being detained and turned away by Customs and Border Protection officials. On Saturday as we were preparing the legal papers, getting them on file and trying to get a handle on what’s happening around the airports, ACLU lawyers around the country along with other volunteer lawyers and lawyers from other immigrants’ rights groups were mobilizing to the airports. We had a colleague, Andre Segura, who went to JFK, and Cody Wofsy, who went to SFO, and then other ACLU state-affiliate lawyers around the country going to airports joining with other lawyers. And so literally, you’re basically pounding the pavement to try to get a handle on what was happening, because government officials were not telling us.

We would go to the arrivals area of all these international airports and basically scan the arrivals area for people who looked like they were relatives anxiously awaiting people who were coming into the US. As you also saw, at the same time people were mobilizing to go and protest at airports around the country. We ended up seeing the immense show of support for immigrants and refugees from these banned countries with people turning out at the airports to resist the Trump administration’s executive order and to show support for immigrants both already in the United States and who were trying to come in through the airports that very day.

On the evening of Saturday, January 28th, we ended up going to federal court in Brooklyn, the eastern district of New York, and there was an immense crowd of about 1,000 people gathered outside of the courthouse, because we quickly got word out through social media that this hearing was happening. As our colleague Lee Gelernt, who’s an ACLU lawyer, was arguing the case of Mr. Darweesh in federal court in Brooklyn, there were people who were literally being put on planes by federal government officials at airports around the country illegally under the executive order.

There was this very dramatic moment when Peter Markowitz, who is an immigrants’ rights attorney in New York, rushed in. He had been at JFK all day long and rushed into the courtroom and went up to Lee Gelernt, who was standing at the lectern arguing to this US district judge, and whispered to him, “Get her to issue the ruling now. There is a woman who’s been put on a plane. It’s literally taxiing to the runway. She’s being deported now under the executive order, and we need a court order.” The court ruled as it did, staying or basically freezing all the deportations under the executive order.

Then further chaos ensued because the Trump administration had not rolled out the executive order in any coherent way. They also didn’t roll out the court order in any coherent way. So there were these volunteer attorneys, and even in JFK there were all of these city officials, New York City officials, and members of Congress who were desperately trying to persuade the CBP officials in the airport that in fact a federal court had ruled against the Trump administration and that they had to turn the planes around to the extent that they had people who were being deported so that they could come in to the United States.

Michelman: Wow. I know this happened in real life, but hearing you tell it, this story sounds like a movie.

Wang: It was a very intense weekend. We had lawyers around the country both at the ACLU and at other organizations and volunteer private attorneys who were doing everything they could and repeating this process of filing individual habeas corpus petitions in federal courts wherever there were airports where people were being turned away and deported under the executive order on January 28th.

Michelman: It’s crazy that this was just one year ago. Can you update us a little bit on where we’re at now? Many of our readers care about the issue of immigrants’ rights, and so I’m wondering what the ACLU’s work on this specific issue or set of issues is looking like now a year later.

Wang: Yeah. It has been an incredible year. 2017 was an amazing year of legal challenges and popular resistance. The same kind of dynamic that I just played out over the course of the 36-hour period starting on January 27, 2017, continued throughout the year. What was so critical throughout the year was that the lawyers went to court to stop the Trump administration from carrying out its illegal and white nationalist policies on immigration, supported by this groundswell, including all the cafes who came forward and raised money in communities; micro-communities sent in financial support and actual support in the form of speaking out, turning up, showing up around the country, whether it’s at airports or at marches or just expressing in local communities our resistance to the Trump administration’s plans on immigration and refugee admissions.

That continued, and so we’ve had the president on the ropes throughout the year. The ACLU with our partners filed the initial lawsuit that got a stop to version one of the Muslim ban. Then Trump came out with version two of the Muslim ban in March. We had to start at square one again amending our complaints, filing new lawsuits in order to stop version two in March. At that point, as you know, or soon after all of the immigrants’ rights organizations and the ACLU went forward with our legal challenges to the first version, the state of Washington jumped into the fray, which was a sign of how widespread the harms of Trump’s Muslim ban are that state governments were coming forward to say, “We’re going to take the Trump administration to court because our state interests are being harmed by these discriminatory anti-Muslim policies.”

Then you saw the victories that were scored not only by the ACLU but the state of Washington with version two, which rolled out in March. We similarly beat the Trump administration in court, and then he rolled out version three. Version three contained a provision meant to separate out the refugee piece from the visa piece, which meant that there were even more lawsuits filed. We again filed. We amended our complaint when version three came out and said, “Version three is like the other two versions.” The state of Hawaii, which had filed its lawsuit, also was litigating in parallel with us, and again the Ninth Circuit in the Hawaii case and the Fourth Circuit in our IRAP case again ruled against the Trump administration.

What’s going on right now is that version three has just been taken up by the Supreme Court. On Friday, January 19th, the Supreme Court granted a cert in the Hawaii case. Right now, we are still waiting for our decision from the US Court of Appeals for the Fourth Circuit, so our case may end up in the Supreme Court as well, but basically the president has continued to doggedly pursue his Muslim ban and other anti-immigrant, anti-Muslim policies despite being rebuked by the courts time and again.

Beyond the specific legal issues that have to do with the Muslim ban, which are about the Establishment Clause or the First Amendment and about the Immigrant and Nationality Act, there’s this more fundamental issue that’s being raised in the Supreme Court case and that’s been raised all year long in all of the lower courts, and that is President Trump is asserting that he can bar anyone he wants from the United States, any non-citizens that he wants from the United States, whether it’s because they’re Muslim or because they’re from certain countries, and that no one can stop him. He’s basically taken the position that the courts have no power to review what the president does when it comes to immigrant policy.

That’s what the Ninth Circuit and the Fourth Circuit and the lower district courts have repeatedly blocked him from doing. They’ve categorically rejected the notion that the president can act without any judicial review, and that is one of the core issues that will be taken up by the Supreme Court when it hears the Muslim ban.

Michelman: People talked a lot last year about this specific claim by the administration, where they said, in effect, “Our ban doesn’t say the word ‘Muslim’ in it, so it’s not really a Muslim ban; it just happens to be from these countries.” Which resulted in people going back and saying, “Well, wait, you said X, Y, and Z on the campaign trail, and so here’s your statements to the contrary of what you’re trying to say.” How much of that is still in play? What role do past statements play in determining the true intent behind the ban?

Wang: It’s a great question. There are basically two questions on which the president’s own statements out of his own mouth or out of his own Twitter account have drastically deviated from what the president’s lawyers have said in court. The first one is what you’ve identified, which is the president’s lawyers come into court and they say, “This is not a Muslim ban. We’re not going after Muslims. We are going after national security risks from these countries.” The courts have been unanimous in saying, “Well, we’re going to consider what the president himself has said.”

He has reaffirmed time and again, including recently after taking office and with respect to the third version of his Muslim ban, that in fact he is going after Muslims. He is making good on his campaign promise of barring Muslims from immigrating to the United States. He was very clear in saying that. He initially said as a candidate, “I want to ban Muslims from coming to the United States,” and then he was told by advisors, “You can’t do that. It would be unconstitutional.”

From there he literally goes to Rudy Giuliani, the former mayor of New York City, and says, “Giuliani, tell me how I can do my Muslim ban in a legal way.” The recommendation he got back was, don’t do a religious test for admission to the United States; the way you should do it is to go after territories or countries. In other words, they’re using countries as a proxy for religion, and you see that in the countries they’ve chosen now in the third version. Every single version of the ban that’s been in place has overwhelmingly affected Muslims because they’ve picked countries that are predominantly Muslim, overwhelmingly Muslim in their demographics.

The president has continued to say through his Twitter account that he wanted a tough ban from the beginning; he was told to water it down by the lawyers and that he was right all along. He wanted to go with the full-out version of his Muslim ban. That’s been the story that has come out in the courts, the story of how the president shifted from an explicit religion-based ban on Muslims to the proxy of a country-based ban that has the same effect of banning Muslims.

The second point in which the president has deviated from what his lawyers have said in court is that as a legal strategy, the government lawyers keep saying, “This is just a temporary suspension on the admission of people from these countries.” Well, that too has been belied by the fact that what originally was a 90-day suspension, they’ve been trying to pursue it for a year. The third version of the ban, which came in the form of this proclamation, has a feature of giving the president or the president assuming for himself the power to indefinitely re-up the ban and even to add new countries to the ban. It says so on the very face of the proclamation.

As many of our clients have said in our more recent filings in court, even if one of our individual clients was separated from their spouse or their child who had a visa to come to the United States and was blocked by Trump’s executive orders, even in those cases where our litigation has successfully reunited that family and got a court order that permits the person to come into the country to be united with their family member—even in those cases—the impact of the Muslim ban is still devastating. Everyone in the country and around the world knows that President Trump is going after Muslims and that that’s had devastating impacts on our communities around the country.

Michelman: Right. I can only imagine, but it’s so embarrassing to know that this is being done in our name, as Americans, and so many people feel the same way—that’s why you saw so much support for the ACLU’s fight on this issue.

I’m sure that it was a dizzying time while this was all going on, but I’m curious to know, did people at the ACLU see the support happening from the coffee community during this time last year?

Wang: Absolutely, absolutely. I mean, we saw it on an individual level where I personally would go to cafes at home in San Francisco or while I was on the road and see that. Cafes play such a critical role in how our communities come together. We all know that. What was so heartening to see is it’s a two-way street in terms of the impact. I can go as just a resident of the local community to my local cafe and see I’ve got a way to plug in to the effort. I’ve got a way. We’re not going to have an airport protest every weekend, but I can drop my $5 bill and I know that’s going to support the work, which makes it possible for the lawyers to go and travel and do our work. That support makes it possible for us to lift up immigrant communities in all of these ways through our work, but it’s also a way for individuals and families around the country to say, we’re joining in.

That protest, the visibility of the American people saying no to the president’s policies, has been so critical throughout the year. We wouldn’t have these wins in court if we didn’t have the people behind us. At the end of the day, we’re going to have to keep going to court, because the president is undeterred, and he’s going to keep pushing illegal policies that we need to challenge through the court system. But at the end of the day, what’s going to really make the difference and what is going to definitively shut down the efforts of President Trump and his base to re-institute a white nationalist immigration policy is the flexing of the people’s political muscle.

What cafes have done in raising money, in putting up a flier, in displaying that Refugees are Welcome sign in the door or the window, all of those things are part of that groundswell of the American people saying, “We do not agree with President Trump.” It makes such a difference not only because it empowers regular people who want to show their support and actually take part in democracy, but it also is critical for the targeted members of our communities. When I am a refugee anxiously awaiting my relative who’s been blocked by President Trump and I go to my local cafe, I can see a visible manifestation of the community’s support and love for me, that the community is saying, “We don’t agree with Trump, we welcome you.” That is so beautiful to see.

Michelman: Did you ever have a moment while it was going on where you went into a cafe and you were like, “Hi, I work for the ACLU”? Did you ever have that moment?

Wang: Yeah, absolutely. I don’t recall actually specifically where, but I can recall on more than one occasion where I walked into a cafe and saw that people were raising money to support the ACLU and our work on the Muslim ban. I definitely, like I said, I’m walking into that cafe both as a customer but also as someone who’s doing the work, and it felt so good. Every time that has happened, I have felt so great about the fact that I feel supported by it both as an individual and as a representative of this organization. I wish I could remember the specific cafes, because it happened more than once, but I remember actually emailing my colleagues and saying, “Hey, I just went into this cafe and saw this amazing sign… ”

Michelman: That’s awesome.

Wang: Yes, and so many of my colleagues had the same experience.

Michelman: What’s your preferred cafe order? What do you like to get when you go out for coffee?

Wang: [laughs] I just get a pour-over.

Michelman: Always a pour-over?

Wang: Yes! I’m a drip coffee drinker.

Michelman: That’s awesome. Well, for people who really care about this stuff and want to stay involved, what are some ways people can stay involved going forward as the fight continues?

Wang: We have our People Power effort, which really has been made possible by the donations from people around the country. The ACLU has always been one of the leading civil rights and civil liberties legal outfits. People know that you can count on us to go and sue the government when the government needs suing. What I think has been really neat is that we have this People Power initiative so people can gather in local communities to say, we want to work on this issue, whether it’s the Muslim ban, whether it’s supporting Dreamers or supporting abortion rights. Whatever it is, people can ban together. You can go to PeoplePower.org and organize yourselves around the issues you care about that the ACLU is working on.

As our country gets more and more polarized, and as President Trump’s base continues egging him on to enact white supremacist policies, we also have on the opposite end of the spectrum; well, actually it’s not really a spectrum, I would submit that the great majority of American people disagree with what he is doing. He’s got a very vocal minority base that’s egging him on, whereas the majority of people in this country are fighting to maintain our better values. We care about integrating, we care about fairness, we care about equality; we care that everybody gets an equal opportunity to live their best life in their local communities.

I think that we’re going to have protracted fights. We see it right now with the government, with the Republicans briefly shutting down the government because they’ve refused to give Dreamers a chance to continue living and contributing in the United States. As those kinds of fights come down to legislative battles, I think that people around the country can literally speak up by calling a member of Congress, who’s making a very important decision to say, “I’m not a Dreamer. I am not an immigrant myself, but I care about this, and I’m going to be voting accordingly.” I think that’s really critical.

I think that one of the concerns that we had as civil rights advocates, as human rights advocates is January 28, 2017 was this crescendo moment where you saw just thousands of people. You know the president was sitting there in the White House watching CNN, watching MSNBC, watching these protests, and the concern we have is you can’t protest in the airport every day. You can’t protest in the airport every weekend. We just had this fantastic, perhaps annual Women’s March, which I took part in and so many people took part in. That’s a crescendo moment where the people are expressing their will in numbers, but how do we keep that up every day?

I think that you keep that up every day by expressing solidarity in your local community and by calling your representatives in Congress and having those one-on-one conversations with your awkward uncle, who may not be informed on these issues. It’s the same way that we won on LGBT equality. It’s having those immediate conversations in our families, in our local communities and keeping up the pressure, translating that up to the national level. What they feel you can do is to help people to coalesce and have those conversations locally, and we can definitely help in translating that local action to the national level. We all just have to keep doing our part wherever we are.

Michelman: Yeah. Well, thank you so much for your time today, and thank you for everything that you do with your professional work on this. It’s hugely important. I really appreciate you and everyone at our small company appreciates you.

Wang: Thank you. I really want to emphasize that we feel so supported by what cafes and local cafe communities have done over the past year. It makes such a big difference, and we are incredibly grateful to have that partnership and to have all of the work that we can do collectively because people pitch in everywhere.

Michelman: That’s fantastic—thank you so much Cecillia. They better choose somebody good to play you in the movie.

Wang: [laughs] Thanks.

Learn more and get involved at ACLU.org and PeoplePower.org. Special thanks to Danielle Silber and Cecillia Wang of ACLU National for organizing this interview. Even more thanks to Sprudge staffers Robyn Brems and Zac Cadwalader for their tireless work behind the scenes organizing last year’s fundraising effort. 

#refugeeswelcome

#yesequal

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Coffee Design: Elixr Coffee In Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Philadelphia’s Elixr Coffee is a coffee company on the grow. Eight years in, Elixr is cranking out coffee at three cafes, including a fresh roastery and cafe that opened last year. This year, Elixr is rolling out new packaging that’s sophisticated and practical. Stackable, shippable, displayable blue boxes with colorful and well-executed labels. We asked Elixr’s Evan Inatome to tell us more.

When did the coffee package design debut?

We just rolled these out on Thursday, January 25th, although the design process has almost been a year in the making.

Who designed the package?

Smith and Diction, a local company, has been amazing from start to finish. Extremely talented hard-working professionals, they have an honest knack for good design. I just hope they will still be affordable in 5 years!

Tell us about the different portraits, illustrations, and labels for the offerings.

Our really special single origin coffees always get a hand-drawn illustration. For instance, the one pictured is the great Arturo Aguirre Sr, owner of the legendary (and seven-time COE winning) farm, Finca El Injerto. Our blends also get a custom illustration.

The Ethiopia Limu’s label is noticeably minimal. Was that intentional?

Our standard single origin offerings all have a minimal, but elegant design. We love illustrations, but we also love simplicity. So the single origin label is thoughtful and minimal, but noticeably different from the look of our blends and “reserve” coffees.

Why do you feel aesthetics are important in coffee packaging?

One of Elixr’s core operating philosophies is to execute everything within our power as best as we possibly can. At the cafe level that means things like finding the best local milk or procuring the best chocolate chip cookies in the city. It’s the details and follow-through that are extremely important. So in bringing that philosophy to all aspects of the business, we decided it was time for packaging to get a much-needed redesign. We realized that it’s a damn shame to let something so special sit in an often-wrinkly package, on an often-disheveled looking retail shelf.  So the packaging should be an extension of the coffee experience: thoughtful, simple and elegant.

Where is it currently available?

Many of Philly’s favorite haunts: Federal Donuts, Essen Bakery, Machine Shop Bakery, Knead Bagels, Rooster Soup, Dotties Donuts, Middle Child, Girard, Alchemy Coffee, five points coffee in addition to lots of local Restaurants and grocery stores.  Outside of the city, you can find us in Loma and Coffee Mode in Delaware or Azafran, a Baked Joint, and Baked & Wired in the Maryland/DC area.

Thank you!

Company: Elixr Coffee Roasters
Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Country: United States
Design Date: January 2018
Designer: Smith and Diction

Zachary Carlsen is a co-founder and editor at Sprudge Media Network. Read more Zachary Carlsen on Sprudge.

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5 Practical Ways to Introduce Customers to Specialty Coffee

You serve the customer a citrusy, aromatic, Ethiopian that’s been perfectly extracted. But as they take their first sip, you see them make a face. What went wrong?

Perhaps they’re newcomers to specialty coffee.

Here in Latvia, a small country with a population of just 2 million, third wave coffee has only appeared in the last five years or so. And it’s a joy to be a part this growing market, where we now have several specialty roasteries and even more cafés. But it also means that we’ve had to introduce customers to a whole new type of coffee.

So, get ready to learn from our experience! I’m about to share with you five practical tips for helping customers to develop a taste for specialty coffee.

Join in with the debate! Is Adding Sugar to a Customer’s Coffee Really That Bad?

CappuccinoA cappuccino is ready for serving at ImageHouse, Riga, Latvia. Credit: Gatis Zēmanis

1. Start With a Low-Acidity Coffee

The leap from a commodity coffee to a specialty one is huge – and the biggest difference? The increased acidity. Yes, we specialty coffee geeks love our acidity, but for those not used to it, it can be unpleasant.

A high-altitude washed Geisha, for example, may be too much for someone not used to specialty. Ease in with a drink that’s easier to relate to, such as a sweet natural or pulped natural Brazilian with hazelnut and chocolate notes. It will be familiar to your guest, yet also deliver a new, more complex taste experience.

Learn more! Read Why Are Some Coffees Sweeter Than Others?

Book and coffeeA customer pauses while writing to look at the latte art in their coffee. Credit: Gatis Zēmanis

2. Tell The Story

Whether you’re operating in a culture new to specialty coffee, or simply with guests who are experiencing it for the first time, the customer’s expectations matter. What you present as a “black coffee” may be very different to what they think a black coffee will be – so make sure that you tell its story.

Explain how this brew is different. Why is it prepared like this? What notes have you showcased? What will the customer taste? Present this coffee as a chef would present their dish – you will be helping your guest to understand what they’re about to taste, and also make it more exciting for them when they recognise the flavours you described.

CustomersCustomers raise a glass of filter coffee in Miit Coffee, Riga, Latvia. Credit: Mārtiņš Kubulnieks

3. Ask for Their Opinion

It’s important to not just present the coffee, but also listen to your guest’s thoughts. Of course, this goes for anything that you offer in your coffee shop – but it’s more important than ever when the customer is trying something new. They may have never had an experience like this before. Asking about their experience not only gives you valuable feedback, but also makes them feel welcomed and supported. In turns, this makes the coffee experience even sweeter.

espresso machineA barista pulls espresso shots in Kalve Coffee, Riga, Latvia.  Credit: Gatis Zēmanis

4. Respect Your Guest’s Opinion

From my experience, if everything is done well, most people will enjoy their coffee. However, there will be times when your guest may feel blasé or even negatively about it. In this case, remember, it’s not just about the coffee. It’s about the whole experience. Maintain a positive expression, hear them out, and learn from what they have to say. Baristas are there to make their guests feel happy and appreciated, so even if someone didn’t enjoy their brew, make sure they enjoy their visit.  

BaristaA barista sets up a cupping for guests and customers in Mute, Riga, Latvia. Credit: Gatis Zēmanis

5. Offer Choices!

I truly believe that the best brew for someone is the one they enjoy the most. However, it is our job as coffee professionals to show our customers the diversity of tastes and aromas that is possible. What’s more, through doing so, we enable them to discover new coffees that they will enjoy even more.

Let’s say that your guest always orders an Americano and, every single time, adds sugar. However, if the barista offered them a sample of a sweet natural-processed Rwandan Bourbon, they might discover that, actually, they don’t need the sweetener. And the next time they come to your café, maybe they’ll ask for the Rwandan again.

espressoAn espresso is served, ready for the consumer to enjoy. Credit: Gatis Zēmanis

Introducing customers to specialty coffee is challenging. It’s tough in well-established markets such as Australia, Portland, and London. It’s even harder in emerging ones, such as here in Latvia. But look at it as an opportunity – if you’re the person encouraging others to try specialty, you’re supporting a whole new relationship-orientated industry. You get both the satisfaction of seeing the third wave bloom and the opportunity to become a respected leader in your new coffee scene.

And I truly believe that if you are passionate about specialty coffee, and if you want to share this passion with others, my recommendations will come naturally. Let’s always keep in mind what specialty coffee is about: quality in the cup, strong relationships throughout the chain, and a friendly experience for everyone involved.

Because when you do that, you’ll soon find customers develop a taste for your offerings.

Enjoyed this? You might also like Lessons You Learn When Launching a Coffee Shop!

Written by Raimonds Zadvornovs of Kalve Coffee.

Perfect Daily Grind

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Thursday, February 1, 2018

Cómo Tostar para Resaltar la Acidez

La Acidez: Es es uno de los atributos del café más apreciados por la tercera ola de la industria. Tanto catadores, jueces, tostadores y consumidores se maravillan de tan complejo distintivo al probar una buena taza de café. Sin embargo, como tostadores ¿Cómo podemos hacer para resaltar la acidez en nuestra taza de café? Bueno, afortunadamente tuve la oportunidad de hablar con varios profesionales de la industria para averiguarlo. Y ya sea que tuestes café en tu cocina con una Behmor 1600+ o de forma profesional en un Probatone 25, no dejes de leer si quieres saber lo que aconsejaron.

English Version: How to Roast for Acidity

Tostadora behmorSesión de tueste en casa. Crédito: Angie Molina

¿Qué es la Acidez en el Café?

Bueno, empecemos por lo básico. Bruno Danese, jefe de baristas y tostador en Hoccino Coffee en Japón, me explicó que la acidez puede hacer referencia a múltiples cosas:

“La puedes describir como la cantidad de ácidos contenidos en una taza de café, o bien, como el nivel actual de acidez de la misma, es decir, su nivel de ph”, dijo Bruno. “O, la puedes describir como la sensación de acidez percibida en el paladar y no como los ácidos que están contenidos en el café. La acidez es representativa de un café brillante que tiende a ser muy vivido y delicado. En la tercera ola de la industria es muy importante que el café sea vívido, brillante y elegante”.

VER TAMBIÉN: Cómo Tostar Cafés de Diferentes Orígenes

Esta acidez que percibimos en la taza es lo que tanto buscan consumidores y baristas. Usualmente, es de un tipo afrutado y es generada por ácidos orgánicos y también puede tener relación con la dulzura. De hecho, Nikolai Fürst, tostador en Desarrolladores de Café en Colombia, me comentó que justamente son estos sabores ácidos los que le dan vida a la taza. Si matamos estos ácidos, definitivamente matamos al café, concluyó.

Entre los ácidos orgánicos, existen diferentes tipos, sin embargo, los responsables de impartirle acidez a la taza son los ácidos cítricos, málicos, fosfóricos, tartáricos y acéticos. Estos crean perfiles de café ligeramente diferentes, por ejemplo: el ácido cítrico genera un sabor a fruta cítrica, mientras que el ácido málico puede crear un sabor similar al de la manzana. Hay que tener en cuenta que algunos de estos ácidos pueden ser abrumadores al estar muy marcados en la taza, como el ácido acético, por ejemplo, que puede generar un sabor a vinagre.

Durante el proceso de tueste, estos ácidos se reducirán. Lo que quiere decir que, si controlas el tueste, puedes controlar los sabores; puedes resaltar aquellos que desees y minimizar los que no.

CatacionEntendiendo los diferentes ácidos del café. Crédito: Rico Damona Usman

Conoce tus Granos de Café

Para poder crear un perfil que logre realzar la acidez, primero debes entender la materia prima con la que vas a trabajar. Después de todo, no todos los granos verdes de café tienen la misma cantidad de ácidos orgánicos.

Además, como Kölling-Speer y K. Speer escribieron en Espresso Quality: The Science of Coffee, la sacarosa constituye entre el 6% – 9% del Arábico seco, y solo el 3% – 5% del Robusta. La sacarosa ha sido relacionada positivamente con la acidez; Sin embargo, relación no significa causalidad.

Cabe mencionar que cada variedad de café tiene diferentes niveles de ácidos y azúcares. Por ejemplo, el SL-28 es muy conocido por su acidez.

VER TAMBIÉN: Geisha vs Bourbon: Un Curso Intensivo de Variedades de Café

Además de esto, el ambiente en el que el café es cultivado también puede alterar la acidez. Por ejemplo, a mayor altitud, la maduración del café será más lenta y, por lo tanto, desarrollará azúcares y ácidos más complejos. Aunque en realidad este resultado está relacionado a qué tan frío es el clima en la finca y no a qué tan alta está.

Entonces, la pregunta es: ¿Cómo llegas a conocer tus granos de café? Bueno, lo primero que debes hacer es obtener toda la informacion que tu proveedor, ya sea el productor o un importador, pueda darte. Luego, como Bruno dijo, es sumamente importante catar el café. Por  lo que él acostumbra a efectuar un tueste claro, para catación, de las muestras de sus nuevos lotes y así determina distintas particularidades en los sabores que posteriormente le definirán lo que quiere resaltar.

Cata de cafeListo para romper la costra y empezar a catar. Crédito: Kobrick Coffee

Controlar la Temperatura

Una vez que ya conoces tus granos y has logrado definir lo que quieres obtener, la siguiente pregunta es ¿cómo controlar la acidez? Y la respuesta es: manipulando el calor.

El fundador de Behmor y fabricante del tostador de casa Behmor 1600 Plus, Joe Behm, compartió conmigo la clave, y es mantener “una temperatura alta durante todo el proceso”. Esto realmente “resaltará el brillo del café” agregó.

Pero no debes olvidar la importancia de buscar un balance. Aplicar demasiado calor al principio, en el proceso de tostado, especialmente si estás tostando granos muy suaves y de altitud baja, puede provocar tipping y scorching (abrasivo). Esto es cuando la parte externa del café literalmente se quema. Además de esto, al tostar demasiado rápido, se pierde la posibilidad de que la dulzura natural del café aumente. La dulzura se desarrolla después que la acidez, esa es una de las razones por las que debes conocer bien tus granos de café y decidir exactamente qué tipo de perfil deseas.

En pocas palabras, una temperatura alta ayudará a extraer la acidez, pero si esta es excesiva terminará quemando tu café y eliminando la dulzura.

VER TAMBIÉN: Aspectos Básicos del Tueste: Cómo Tostar Granos Duros y Granos Semiduros

BehmorCiclo medio en una Behmor 1600 Plus. Crédito: Gabriel Fehr

Medir la Temperatura a través del Rate of Rise (RoR)

Como tostador, la forma más fácil para monitorear la temperatura es mediante la progresión de la temperatura o “rate of rise” (RoR). Para hallar el RoR debes registrar la temperatura del tueste cada 30 o 60 segundos, y desde ese momento, calculas qué tan rápido está cambiando. Bruno explicó que esta información es de mucho valor para poder controlar, extender y acortar el proceso de tueste.

En su tostador Loring de 15 kilos, su objetivo es obtener un RoR más alto al comienzo del tueste con un máximo de 20 grados por minuto. Después de eso, crea una disminución constante del RoR. Recuerda, esto no significa que la temperatura desciende; de hecho, eso nunca debería suceder. Una disminución en el RoR quiere decir que la razón de incremento de la temperatura con respecto al tiempo cada vez es menor.

Entonces, al monitorear y manipular el calor en las diferentes etapas del tueste, puedes realmente controlar el desarrollo de los sabores y aromas. Y una de las fases más importantes es el primer crack, así que veamos de qué se trata.

Tueste de cafeCafé recién tostado en proceso de enfriamiento. Crédito: Jasasangrai

Primer & Segundo Crack

Hay tres cosas que debes tomar en cuenta sobre el primer y segundo crack:

1. El Primer Crack Aparece Pronto, ¡Pero no muy Pronto!

Para resaltar la acidez, Bruno sugirió llegar temprano al primer crack en el proceso de tueste. En su Loring de 15 kilogramos, el busca alcanzar el primer crack entre los ocho y los nueve minutos de haber iniciado el tueste. El haber mantenido la intensidad de calor bastante alta hará que esto sea bastante fácil de lograr.

Sin embargo, es sumamente importante tener moderación. Ya que si un café naturalmente tiene una acidez bien marcada, resaltar la misma, nos podría dar un sabor agrio. En este caso, Bruno explicó que es importante que no llegues el primer crack demasiado pronto. Y como siempre, si conoces tus granos, es más fácil identificar el perfil correcto.

2. El Primer Crack no Debe durar Mucho

¿Recuerdas que el objetivo de Bruno es llegar a un máximo de 20 grados por minuto para luego descender lentamente el ritmo de incremento en la temperatura (RoR)? “Esto nos ayudará a obtener una buena curva S (un perfil de tueste básico)”, explicó Bruno “y te permitirá obtener un primer crack más corto, el cual destacará la acidez en forma notable”, agregó.

Así es: la duración del primer crack importa tanto como el tiempo de tueste.

Bruno trata de que su primer crack dure alrededor de unos 90 segundos. Para lograrlo, se asegura de que el tueste tenga bastante energía a medida que se acerca a ese momento importante. “A veces, no tener la energía suficiente genera un RoR más bajo, y causa que el primer crack se prolongue a dos minutos.” mencionó Bruno “lo cual es algo que quieres hacer solo con cafés de baja densidad”, agregó.

(Los cafés blandos o de baja densidad, que generalmente se cultivan a un altura baja, tienden a transferir el calor de manera diferente porque tienen bolsas de aire más grandes dentro de los granos. Ese aire puede hacer más lenta la transferencia de calor, y por lo tanto, a menudo estos cafés requieren tuestes más lentos y suaves).

Granos de caféGranos de café recién tostados. Crédito: Sukhi Bedi

3. No Termines el Tueste muy Tarde – o muy Antes

Si bien el primer crack da la señal de que tu tueste está llegando a su punto final. El momento exacto en que detengas este proceso tendrá un impacto impresionante en la taza.

Si tuestas los granos por mucho tiempo hará que la acidez sea menos perceptible. Los ácidos clorogénicos se descomponen en ácido quínico. Y no te dejes engañar por el nombre, si bien puede ser un ácido, no agregará una acidez vibrante y frutal a tu taza, sino lo contrario, obtendrás amargor.

Por otro lado, ¡tampoco querrás un tueste poco desarrollado! Detenerlo demasiado temprano dará lugar a sabores a horneados y a pasto húmedo en la taza.

Joe Behm dijo: “Entre más corto sea el tiempo entre el primer y el segundo crack, mejor. Si bien, todavía vas a querer un poco más de desarrollo, vas a lograr resaltar más los sabores brillantes si tienes un tiempo más corto entre el primero y el segundo crack “.

Nivel de tuesteEl mismo café, diferentes niveles de tostado. Crédito: Sukhi Bedi

Consejos para Quienes Tuestan en Casa

Si recién estás empezando a tostar en casa, llevar a cabo perfiles de tueste que resalten la acidez debe parecerte difícil. La verdad es que puede tomar su tiempo aprender a controlar el primer crack y la razón de incremento en la temperatura (ROR). Sin embargo, parte de este maravilloso arte es descubrir qué efecto tuvieron tus decisiones, durante el proceso de tueste, en el sabor final del café, sin importar el equipo que tengas. Inclusive, si estás tostando en tu garaje con una Behmor 1600 Plus, puedes experimentar con diferentes perfiles.

Camilo Cárdenas, tostador en Brew92 en Jeddah, Arabia Saudita, me comentó que jugar con diferentes tiempos de desarrollo y comparar los resultados puede ser un buen ejercicio. Sugirió tratar de tostar cafés durante 8 minutos, 11 minutos y 15 minutos, pero buscando un color similar y una cantidad de tiempo similar después del primer crack.

El hacer esto, y luego catar el café, te ayudará a entender el impacto que tiene el tiempo de tueste en la acidez y te permitirá empezar a experimentar con la temperatura y la razón de incremento, con respecto al tiempo, de la misma. Además, realmente demostrará que el color no siempre es indicador del sabor de un café. El sabor final en la taza depende de las decisiones que se tomaron durante el tueste.

Ah, y también es una buena idea intentar esto con múltiples cafés. Diferentes granos reaccionarán de una manera diferente al calor, sin mencionar, que el perfil de tueste ideal dependerá del café en sí, su origen, el clima de la finca y cómo el productor eligió cultivarlo, cosecharlo y procesarlo.

Y al final, entre más tuestes realices, y más cafés analices, más conocimiento obtendras de todo esto.

Análisis de tueste

Analizando diferentes cafés después de tostar. Crédito: Angie Molina

Nadie dijo que dominar el proceso de tueste sería algo fácil, pero si lo fuera, ¿lo disfrutarías tanto? Aprender a controlar y manipular la acidez toma tiempo, por lo que hay que experimentar un poco y tener mucha pasión. No obstante cuando saboreas las diferencias en los perfiles de cada taza, todo vale la pena.

Escrito por Angie Molina.

Ten en cuenta: este artículo fue patrocinado por Behmor.

Traducido por Alejandra M Hernández y editado por Ricardo Gallopp R.

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Championing Diversity With The Boston Intersectional Coffee Collective

Kristina Jackson, creator of the groundbreaking new organization Boston Intersectional Coffee Collective (BICC), has been working in various alcoves of the hospitality industry for more than 15 years. A shift lead at Intelligentsia Coffee in Watertown, Massachusetts (a Boston suburb), Jackson spends her time off-bar working as a professional singer. “I know I’m not a poster child for what a barista looks like,” she says, when asked why she created BICC. “I’m also not a poster child for what a classical musician looks like. Maybe I’m not a poster child for what a black queer femme woman looks like. That’s why I want BICC to exist—because people like me matter just as much as anyone else, and our time has come.”

Jackson was inspired to create an intersectional coffee organization the night that a grand jury failed to indict Eric Garner’s killer. After that evening, she sought out a connection with other black activists at Black Lives Matter Cambridge, where she met writer/activist Didi Delgado, who encouraged Jackson to keep speaking up for herself and her community. “That was when I started talking online and tweeting my thoughts, even if they were angry,” she says. “Next thing I knew, I was meeting other coffee people online who felt—like me—frustrated about politics and racism and sexism, but also stressed about things plaguing the coffee community.”

coffee communities rj joseph

Kristina Jackson (left) with Gissell Lara-Arredondo. Photo courtesy of The Pour.

Citing Boston’s reputation for being unwelcoming to people of color—especially those who are LGBTQ—Jackson felt that the city in particular needed an organization that truly centered people of color. “When I moved here, I thought I was going to find a city bursting with culture and diversity,” she says. Instead, she sees clear segregation between white communities and communities of color, which translates into the coffee world. She found this separation most shocking at latte-art throwdowns. “My first throwdown here, I was literally the only black person,” she says. “There were maybe seven or eight women. It took me more than a year to attend another event after that night.” Once she worked up the nerve to jump back into the throwdown scene, she went consistently; her presence was noted, and she could tell it made the space more welcoming to others. “One time I competed and made it to the third round before I was knocked out, and three different women came up to me and said I inspired them to try next time just by being behind the machine.”

Although BICC only launched in fall 2017, the organization traces its roots back to a panel discussion event last January put together by Dandy Anderson (who now works at Gimme Coffee in NYC). Titled “Behind the Bar: Real Talk from Women and Other Folks in the Coffee Industry,” the panel represented an important moment in Boston Coffee, for Jackson and the larger coffee community. “It was an opportunity to do something positive and different,” says Jackson. “I originally didn’t intend on speaking at the event, but as soon as I was asked, all these experiences of sexism and racism and erasure at work started coming up that I felt like, as a black woman and a coffee person in Boston, I had a unique opportunity to speak on. We had such a huge turnout for that night and such amazing feedback, that I wanted to put a name to that work.”

coffee communities rj joseph

Courtesy of The Pour.

To kick off its official launch, BICC hosted an all-women latte-art throwdown called “Ladies Night,” which served as a fundraiser for a local charity called Rosie’s Place—the first official women’s shelter in the U.S. “I went to drop off the check along with some clothes and food and I felt so good about what our community was able to accomplish. It gives me hope about what we as a community have the potential to do for those we serve. Those women are the types of people who can’t afford to come into our shops, but we’re still connected to their lives and should do what we can to uplift and serve them.” Currently, Jackson is planning a small event for early 2018 at a black-owned pop-up coffee shop in the historically black neighborhood of Dorchester, which she hopes will inspire more white customers to visit black businesses in the area.

Unlike the many coffee organizations that only exist for those who live and breathe coffee, Jackson wants BICC to work for those who don’t necessarily see coffee as a career. In a community where few shops send workers to events and competitions, she would love to find a way to send people who otherwise wouldn’t have the opportunity. She also wants to have more panel discussions that highlight the lives of local baristas. “So many of us are artists or have careers outside of coffee, and those things deserve recognition too.” But her larger goal will always be supporting those that coffee workers interact with and serve. “By that, I don’t just mean our customers, I mean the communities where are shops are located,” she says. “How can we incorporate volunteer work? How can we incorporate fundraising for charity work? How can we fight gentrification, which is terribly rampant in Boston? We can do that by bonding together to better understand the people we serve. My hope is that, as many new coffee shops open in Boston over the next few years, we can foster positivity and healthy competition among ourselves.”  

Jackson hopes to find support and collaborate with those who truly believe in and practice intersectionality. Interested parties can email BICC at kjacksonbicc@gmail.com and/or donate to the attached Google Wallet. In both an industry and a region that are predominantly white and male, Jackson and BICC bring much-needed critical focus to the work the industry still needs to do to truly achieve equity.

RJ Joseph (@RJ_Sproseph) is a Sprudge staff writer, the publisher of Queer Cup, and a coffee professional based in the Bay Area. Read more RJ Joseph on Sprudge Media Network.

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The Reality of Producing Specialty Coffee on Tiny Farms

Imagine owning a farm so small that you cannot receive practical help – even though, with the low profit margins and high costs of coffee production, you probably need it even more than bigger plantations.

For many producers around the world, this is their reality.

In fact, I’m one of those producers – I like to call us “microscopic coffee farmers.” I’m a 60-year-old Canadian but I’ve lived almost half my life in Panama, where I now own a small farm. And I’ve been working with neighboring farmers to improve our situation through access to the specialty market. Read on to discover a microscopic farmer’s perspective of our challenges, and how we’re trying to overcome them.

Learn more! Read about The Main Challenges Faced by Coffee Producers

Coffee cherriesRipe coffee cherries in a basket. Credit: Finca de Dios

The Two Faces of Panama Coffee

Panama may be famous for its exquisite Geisha coffee, but in the isolated region of Barreta, Coclé, things look very different.

Most exported specialty-grade coffee comes from Chiriquí, with its well-established farmlands, tall mountains, and cloud forests. It’s here that you’ll find the big names within Panama’s coffee industry: Hacienda La Esmeralda, for example, which brought Geisha to the world’s attention and just last year sold a lot for US $601/lb in auction.

Learn more! Read Panama Geisha – The Reality of a Fantasy Bean

In Chiriquí, many farms are thirty to fifty hectares in size but, of course, you will also find smallholder farmers. Farms usually start at around five hectares in size; even at ten hectares in size, they can be considered small.

Many of these small farms are family-owned, passed down from generation to generation. The coffee trees are often wonderful to look at; the producers are a credit to all coffee farmers. Some of them have been producing fantastic coffee for over 100 years.

Despite that, due to their small size, they may struggle to grow enough coffee to compete on their own, nationally or internationally.

Yet here in Barreta, it’s even harder. Farms aren’t small; they’re microscopic. The average producer owns one to three hectares, and most of this land doesn’t produce anything. The largest farms are no more than eight hectares, with perhaps just 50% of that used for growing coffee.

In my work here in Barreta, I partner with a Panamanian named Alvaro. At the time of our project’s beginning, his average annual income was just US $400 – less than US $35 a month. And while I cannot find any official data on this, Alvaro tells me that many others didn’t earn as much as him.

Coffee flowerCoffee flowers. Credit: Bird Friendly Coffee

Poor Prices, Low Investment: A Spiralling Situation

Much of Barreta’s coffee has historically gone to large national coffee companies who would combine lots from multiple farms and then sell them on. The result of this is extremely low coffee prices; before I arrived, I’m told it was only US $1/lb in the region.

And remember, the people in Barreta are not producing much coffee. They still have all the farm expenses, but without any hope of profiting. Many producers couldn’t afford to maintain their farm, so had to let them go. The area produced less and less each year. And in turn, the farmers earned less and less, creating a downwards spiral.

Coffee leaf rust, a fungus that infects the leaves of coffee trees and slowly destroys them, became a huge problem. I would say that, in our area, it wiped out about 90% of the plants.       

leaf rust                                           A farm slowly dies as a result of coffee leaf rust. Credit: Damian Reed

The people here live in extreme poverty. The area is isolated with poor infrastructure. The only road in and out has been badly neglected. It’s been four years since a road grader last passed over it.

Read more! How Poor Roads Cause Problems for Papua New Guinea’s Coffee

A medical team comes to the area once every two months. We’ve had babies die because their families couldn’t get them to the hospital on time. I know one family whose ten-year-old boy was bitten by a poisonous viper and didn’t get to the hospital until three days later. Fortunately, he recuperated well. My partner’s wife gave birth to their son at the coffee mill, with no one present except for my partner and her. Happily, their son was a healthy bouncing baby boy who loves coffee.

Coffee farmerAlvaro and his son Alex on the coffee farm. Credit: Damian Reed  

The 7 Biggest Challenges Facing Microscopic Farmers

When Alvaro and I started working together, we realised that we had seven main challenges to overcome:

1. The Quality Challenge

Our goal, since 2008, has been to convert Barreta into a specialty coffee region. Not everyone believed it was possible. I reached out to other producers in other regions, including those from The Best of Panama auction and awards. Yet some of the people I spoke to felt that my goals weren’t possible, not here in Barreta. Only Chiriquí, I heard again and again, could produce specialty-grade coffee. Fortunately, we were able to prove this myth wrong.

2. The Farmland Challenge

I would say that the average farm here produces coffee on approximately 50% of its land. Producers need to help their plants recuperate, both in terms of health and number. However, all this costs money. A farmer who has an average income of US $400 a year doesn’t have much spare for farm investment. On top of that, it takes years for plants to produce at maximum yield.

Basket of coffeeA basket full of coffee cherries.

3. The Training Challenge

Although many local producers have worked their whole lives in coffee, they haven’t been trained in the most up-to-date and recommended farming methods. Information has been hard to access. However, the US-run volunteer programme Peace Corps and government initiatives have helped local producers to learn about best practices.

In our case, we arranged for Alvaro, my partner, to receive training in Costa Rica. We also hired consultants to come and inspect the farms and impart instruction. Now, Alvaro passes on his training to everyone who is willing to learn. We strive to teach by example.

4. The Trust Challenge

There is little local trust in initiatives and companies. People feel that government initiatives have been too short-term and ineffective. The low prices offered by commodity buyers have left producers disillusioned.

5. The Marketing & Sales Challenge

This is perhaps the most difficult challenge of all. If the producer cannot sell their coffee at a sustainable price, everything else is for nothing. Yet many organizations and government agencies fail to mention marketing.

As for sales, when operating on such a small scale, we need to be creative. I do not believe that producers with land as tiny as ours can profit when selling green coffee or even roasted coffee in supermarkets. The most feasible method of making a sustainable income is to sell by the cup – but that takes serious planning and investment.

Red coffee cherryCoffee cherries ripen on the branch. Credit: Carmen Estate Coffee

6. The Infrastructure Challenge

Specialty-grade coffee requires proper procedures, especially during processing. When it comes to building a good mill, you need to find the right piece of land, construct the building, get the equipment, obtain the permits, and train employees. For microscopic farmers, these are hard to afford.

Similarly, there’s the issue of good roads. Even once you have a mill, some farms can be as far as a two-hour walk away from it. Many farmers carry sacks of soaking wet coffee beans on their backs in the mud and rain across the mountains after harvesting coffee all day. This is not how you produce good-quality coffee and it’s certainly not how you produce sustainable coffee or a good quality of life.

7. The Organizational Challenge

One of the first things we tried to do was create a cooperative. A good cooperative can solve a lot of problems: producers can band together to create mills, market their coffee, and negotiate prices. Unfortunately, our attempts didn’t succeed. Like any team or group, running a cooperative is hard work and relies on the cooperation and shared goals of all members.

Coffee beanWashed coffee beans dry slowly on raised beds.

What Does The Future Hold for Barreta?

Microscopic farmers like myself can produce an exceptional product – but we often need support or the right resources to do so.

Barreta is proof of that. Alvaro and I have seen great progress: our coffee has been Q-graded at 85.5, 86, and 87 points for the past three years, respectively. Producing specialty-grade coffee on an extremely small farm is possible.

Q grader resultsQ grader results on one of Damian and Alvaro’s lots; the overall score was 86.

The only challenge is making it profitable. Our marketing strategies are varied. We sell our coffee in packages at fairs and through friends in different towns and in restaurants. We also sell it by the cup in vending machines. In this way, we’re gaining recognition for our product.

We don’t yet earn viable wages, but we are able to maintain our farms. As quality continues to grow, as we can invest more in infrastructure, and as we find new ways to market and sell our coffee, we hope to see this improve.

We constantly strive to find an opportunity to market our products effectively. And at the very least, we get to drink great coffee.

Many organizations do wonderful work helping smallholder farmers earn a better living. But we mustn’t overlook the producers who are even smaller and whose challenges are even harder.

Liked this article? You might also enjoy The Complicated Role of Money in Specialty Coffee

Written by Damian Reed of La Buena Tierra Coclesana SA.

Perfect Daily Grind

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