Wednesday, October 10, 2018

Intellectual Property In Coffee: A Global Game Of Clones

I remember when I visited my extended family in Taiwan in 1998. Lining the streets were vendors doling out the latest movie on DVD, before it even left the theater. A few years later, the girls around school were all sporting bags with the Chanel-style C patterned around them. I bought a pair of C-patterned heels for NT$100 (US$3 at that time). They were such a steal and people fawned all over them.

What I didn’t know was that pirated movies and counterfeit products were intellectual property rights violations, and that I was enabling the market.

When I first decided to write this feature series [READ PART ONE HERE] I had wanted to explore cultural influences in intellectual property (IP). Instead, it evolved into also looking at how developing countries manage IP and how the internet influences global coffee culture. Every country has a different approach to IP laws, and social media only makes access to other people’s ideas easier.

IP cases in coffee that play out on the international stage tend to be dominated by large corporations—that is, those entities that have the resources to take things worldwide. Patent registrations protect companies, but they also expire after a set number of years. In 1976, Nestlé filed its first patent for its single-pod Nespresso system and subsequently filed at least 1700 more patents. In the US, Keurig Green Mountain filed its first patent for K-Cup pods in 1992. For both companies, the patents began to expire in 2012, opening the doors to new companies and cheaper pods.

Most specialty coffee companies don’t seem to care much about patent wars, despite some having been recently purchased by larger entities like JAB Holding Company or Nestlé. But as specialty coffee—and its accoutrement—continues to be a growing industry, new coffee equipment is constantly being invented. Having ready access to social media only means the newest ideas can get knocked off easier than ever.

The PUSH tamper, created by UK-based Clockwork Espresso, is one example of new coffee equipment that’s been duplicated around the world. In 2015, when soon-to-be United Kingdom Barista champion Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood pulled out a strange, hockey-puck-like tamper on the world competition stage, the audience was buzzing. The shape was unlike any tamper on the market and could conceivably solve pressure consistency issues that occur from one tamp to the next. As expected, similar products began appearing on the world market soon after. When asked about them, the founder of Clockwork Espresso’s Pete Southern confirmed that they were unauthorized copies. “Yes, there are several replica products on the market that are produced without our permission,” he said via email.

Southern’s background is in biotech, where IP protections are common and respected, giving him a leg up on protecting his new product. “Working in this field means that I have direct experience of working with patents, litigation, enforcement, action, etc,” he said. “The coffee industry currently lacks this understanding of IP, but I think this will change over time.”

Southern plans on building an IP portfolio, which is a collection of IP registrations and assets that a company manages. He elaborated, “We will use this portfolio to protect our investment, in a strategic rather than reactive way.”

One common misconception he points out is that “people also don’t seem to realize that selling/distributing/marketing an infringing product without permission is just as illegal as manufacturing it.” On the flip side, patent owners are also able to license their technology, which can benefit the creation of new products without worrying about infringements.

In his paper “Intellectual Property Challenges for Developing Countries: An Economic Perspective,” Keith E. Markus, Professor of Economics at University of Colorado, Boulder, writes, “The costs of developing a system adequate for handling mere counterfeiting cases, let alone complicated patent disputes, can be substantial.” So while a developing country’s economy could be open to stronger IP laws, those laws lack teeth if no one is able to enforce them.

Furthermore, technology licenses are expensive and benefit those who hold the copyrights, mostly companies based in the US. Markus estimated a net inflow of $5.8 billion per year in licensing fees paid to US companies.

At the time of this writing, the Trump administration imposed tariffs on Chinese goods, which is in response to “alleged policies that help its native companies acquire the technology of US firms.” Tariffs are predicted to harm relations between the two countries, beginning with China imposing its own tariffs on US goods. To expand into the Chinese market, where specialty coffee is poised to grow in both consuming and producing sectors, some sharing of technology information is needed.

Barb and Doug Garrott are co-owners of Orphan Espresso, a Troy, Idaho company that designs and sells coffee grinders and accessories. They’ve had their “products directly purchased, and copied, sold on Amazon, and on eBay,” the Garrotts told Sprudge via email. Orphan Espresso’s OE Lower Bearing Upgrade Kit (for use with the Hario Skerton grinder), Ipanema Dosing Cylinder, and standard dosing funnels are all products they’ve seen directly copied by both small and large, multinational companies.

When the company was first starting out, applying for design patents was too costly for them. Reaching out to the companies that were copying its products only produced responses that pointed out the lack of a patent. The Garrotts learned that “the more successful, the faster it will be copied and if your R&D costs, or tooling costs are quite high, you may be copied before those costs are fully recovered.”

And if companies use overseas manufacturers, IP protection is key. The biggest mistake that the Garrotts have seen peers make, though not made themselves, is “collaborative manufacturing, where the overseas partner became a seller of the design, to the detriment of the original manufacturer—it was a costly mistake.”

Through a Western lens, it is easy to criticize some of this as outright stealing. In his book, “Trouble in the Middle: American-Chinese Business Relations, Culture, Conflict, and Ethics,” author Steven P. Feldman, Professor of Business Ethics at Case Western Reserve University, puts the viewpoint into perspective. In a Confucian society, value is placed in the collective rather than in the individual.

Feldman writes, “Rather than regarding invention as a private right, the Chinese regard public duplication of creative objects as the proper approach to the value of such objects because all creativity comes from a public repository and should contribute back to it.”

This belief in collectivism vs. individualism is at direct odds with IP, where assets and ideas are registered and fought over. China’s entry into the World Trade Organization (WTO) in 2001 meant that it had to agree to some basic IP laws. WTO’s Agreement on Trade-Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) establishes “minimum standards of protection and enforcement that each government has to give to the intellectual property held by nationals of fellow WTO members.”

Feldman says that market protection and stability is far more important to the Chinese government than IP enforcement. He writes: “The Chinese government is concerned that enforcement of IP could hinder economic development by blocking access to information and technology, allowing foreign firms who own the IP to dominate the China market and creating a trade imbalance that favors the West.”

International accords were written by developed nations and have been criticized as being a barrier for developing nations’ growth. Feldman concludes, “The fact is that developing nations cannot compete with developed nations in most areas of IP.”

Technology’s Influences on Coffee Culture

In Vietnam, where Confucianism has a long history, coffee is both grown and consumed. Because the specialty coffee industry is newer, the values may not be as impactful as in other industries.

Sarah G. Grant, Assistant Professor in Cultural Anthropology at California State University, Fullerton, studies Vietnam’s cultural and economic policies in relation to the commodity coffee industry. In a written interview, Grant says the internet played a greater role in the industry than Confucianism. “The Vietnamese specialty coffee industry developed quite rapidly and I think the relative age, education level, and English language fluency has significantly shaped it,” she says. At the moment, Vietnamese specialty coffee professionals are collaborative and supportive of each other.

Social media has certainly played a role in intellectual property and design concepts. Being able to see what a well-known cafe abroad looks like without ever leaving your country offers up an opportunity to spark ideas close to home. Grant says, “A lot of these models put cafe design first—some of the best-known specialty cafes in Vietnam feel like walking into a cafe in LA, Berlin, or San Francisco and I think there’s something to be said for that design influence.”

Interior design inspiration is one thing, but images, logos, and other such copyrighted or trademarked materials can be found floating across international waters. Brian W. Jones, a designer and brand consultant to coffee companies, shared a few examples of this with Sprudge via email.

“Poster designs that I’ve made have been turned into stamps that people use like a logo on their takeaway cups, paintings on their walls, [designs on] their own t-shirts,” Jones says. Most of the violators are small businesses in faraway countries, and pursuing action is often expensive.

When designing for a client, Jones retains only the right to display work in a portfolio. However, he’s observed a client’s branding pirated to a country distant from the original business. “I worked on a [cafe] branding project in London that had [the company’s] entire name and logo ripped off in Seoul,” Jones says. “There was signage and printed cups and engraved tables, all with this logo I designed for a different company.”

What is more concerning—and why many of these protections exist in the first place—is when a stolen name or trademark begins to be confused with the original holder. This tends to dilute the brand and can be damaging to the company. Jones says, “People who would travel to Seoul began to think the London-based company had expanded to South Korea.”

UK-based shop Kaffeine is no stranger to having its designs and name used outside of its home country.  Peter Dore-Smith, founder and director of Kaffeine, wrote via email that despite having the logo and name registered across the EU, “We now have ‘branches in Russia, Jakarta, Texas, Budapest, Penkridge (UK) and the latest is in Crete. There may be even one in Sydney.’”

For Dore-Smith, a friendly reach out comes first. If it fails, then the decision to pursue legal action comes down to where their marks are protected and if it’s worth the cost. “The cost of getting a solicitor to write a letter is about £300 each letter, then following up and chasing, you are looking at around £1,000,” he says.

Farah Bhatti, shareholder at business law firm Buchalter, advises her clients to protect their mark in countries where they plan on selling their products. “Because unlike the US, where it’s a first-to-use country… a lot of other countries are first-to-file countries,” she says. In cases where companies have registered her clients’ trademarks, she ends up filing oppositions against them. Obtaining the rights ends up costing $20,000 when a registration could’ve been only $3000 to $5000.

IP is immensely complicated, especially when you’re expanding internationally. Every country has its own management system, copycat products abound in every industry, and the Internet has only made it easier than ever to adopt ideas.

If success is in your plans, Dore-Smith says, then you should get protection for your brand. Design can be inspired by another shop, but not by a duplication of its marks. “Making a direct copy of something is just stupid and taking the piss,” he adds.

The coffee industry has more challenges ahead in navigating IP in international waters and it may take a few high-profile cases to spur companies into taking protective action.

The final part of this series will focus on IP as it specifically relates to the coffee plant itself in origin countries. Missed the first installment? Click here.

Jenn Chen (@TheJennChen) is a San Francisco–based coffee marketer, writer, and photographer. Read more Jenn Chen on Sprudge.

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Tuesday, October 9, 2018

Brew Methods Compared: How Should You Make Cold Brew Coffee?

Sweet and refreshing: cold brew coffee is a great option for summer or in hotter climates. But how do you make cold brew? What does immersion, drip, and Japanese iced coffee mean?

And which brew method should you use for your perfect coffee – whether you’re craving a sweet, mild cup or a complex, fruity single origin?

Take a look at the different methods in this quick-and-easy guide, and learn how you can improve and adapt your cold brew for a delicious result every time.

You may also like How to Spice Up Your Cold Brew Coffee

Cold brewCold brew with ice from Toma Café in Madrid, Spain. Credit: Julio Guevara

Choosing a Method of Cold Brew Coffee

Just as in conventional coffee brewing, there are many ways of creating cold brew and there are many ways to tweak it to your taste.

Cold brew has a reputation for being sweet, mellow, and lacking in acidity, but it doesn’t necessarily have to be. Before you choose a method, consider what profile you like your coffee to have. This will allow you to choose an extraction method that accentuates the elements you enjoy.

Heat speeds up extraction and some compounds, such as acids, are only extracted with heat. This means that cold brewing requires some different considerations from conventional coffee.

You should also think about the practicalities. How much time and effort are you willing to invest in your cold brew? Do you drink it often enough to buy specialty equipment or is it something you only choose occasionally? Let’s take a look at the pros and cons of the different methods.

Glass of iced cold brewGlass of iced cold brew. Credit: Matt Hoffman

Immersion Brewing

This is probably the technique most people think of when they imagine cold brewing. Combine cold water and ground coffee and let it sit for a few hours. After straining, you have a mellow cup of coffee with minimal effort.

Immersion cold brews are typically very balanced with low acidity. This is because acidic compounds are only extracted with heat. If you like a mellow, sweet coffee, this can be good technique. Try it with a natural processed Burundian or Bourbon to really emphasise the sweetness of the beans.

But some people dismiss cold brew for a perceived lack of complexity and nuances. Along with those acid compounds come fruity notes and liveliness.

Dylan Thome, roaster and quality control manager for Café Registrado in Buenos Aires, highlights how important the right extraction method can be. “Cold brew coffee gets a bad rap from specialty coffee folks because it lacks some of the most prized attributes: acidity and complexity. I found a way to bring out those attributes by tweaking the normal Toddy procedures a bit.”

Discover more: Why Are Some Coffees More Acidic Than Others?

Bottle of cold brewBottle of cold brew, brewed in a Toddy, by Cold Brew 66 in Guadalajara, Mexico Credit: Ana Valencia

Toddy is a cold brew system that uses filter or felt filters to make the immersion method even easier. Dylan outlines his preferred method. “Our recipe uses a 1:8 coffee to water recipe but starts out with a hot bloom for the first minute, followed by an ice bath. After 16 hours we start doing taste tests and measuring TDS until we’ve reached our target and have a balanced beverage.”

Ivan Totti Heyden works in quality control at Academia do Café in Belo Horizonte, Brazil. He has also fine-tuned his immersion method.

“I’ve been working and exploring the cold brewed coffee since 2013,” he says. “At first, I was making it in a bottle and brewer with paper filters, I didn’t like it so I dedicated myself to making it good. I did some experiments with different times, ground size, concentrations, time, and roasts.

“After I found my recipe, I got the Toddy to start making bigger volumes and bottling it. I still use the small Toddy every day to make fresh cold brew to serve in the café and I think it’s very useful.”

So don’t dismiss immersion cold brew as flat and lacking fruitiness. With a little experimentation, you can make it your own.

Learn more! Immersion Cold Brew Recipes: 4 Things You Need to Consider

glass of cold coffeeA glass of cold brew at The Fix in Madrid, Spain. Credit: Fernando Pocasangre

Japanese Iced Coffee Method

This is not technically cold brewed coffee because the coffee is brewed hot. But it’s not iced coffee either. This method involves brewing hot coffee directly on to ice. Think a pour-over device with the body filled with ice.

Japanese iced coffee has a distinctive taste for cold brew coffee. Because the hot water extracts acids, it has a bright, crisp, and refreshing finish. If you enjoy this profile, try it with coffees from origins like Ethiopia, which tend to be high in acidity.

The Japanese ice method has the advantages of being quick, easy, and affordable. If you spontaneously want a cup of cold brew, this is the easy way to do it. You probably already have the equipment to make a pot – just use your Chemex or V60.

Learn more in How To Make Japanese Iced Coffee

coffee brewed over iceHot pour-over coffee brewed over ice. Credit: Sebastian Franzén

Ice Drip Brewing

This technique is also called Kyoto ice drip or Dutch ice drip, and it is for only for those willing to dedicate both time and effort. Ice drip brewing involves cold water slowly dripping on to coffee. Think of it as an extremely slow pour-over – it can take over 24 hours.

The result is clean coffee that has some body and a wide range of nuanced flavours. The technique emphasizes any floral or fruity notes because the sugars from the coffee are extracted but not muddled by a long immersion. Lipids are also extracted, giving the final coffee more viscosity than Japanese iced coffee.

The downside here is the investment in both time and equipment. With a drip per second or even slower, it can take a whole day to produce a pot of coffee. And unlike immersion cold brewing, this is not necessarily passive. Ice drip brewing requires you to monitor and adjust the drip rate as needed.

It also requires some expensive tools. Glass slow-drip towers look impressively scientific, but they don’t come cheap. They also take up a lot of room and are fairly delicate equipment. If you have a small apartment, active family, or busy coffee shop, this may not be the best method for you.

Hario cold brewHario cold brew tower. Credit: Hario Peru

Cold brew coffee can be a great option in warm weather or as a change from your go-to hot drink. As you can see, its reputation as one-dimensional isn’t necessarily accurate. Why not play around with some techniques and different beans to find a recipe that works for you?

Enjoyed this? Check out Immersion Cold Brew Recipes: 4 Things You Need to Consider

Written by Hazel Boydell

Perfect Daily Grind

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¿Qué Deberíamos Haber Aprendido de La Crisis Del Café de 2001?

Cuando el precio internacional del café (o Precio C) cayó en agosto por debajo de USD 1 por libra, muchos se alarmaron. Incluso fuera de la industria, la caída aparecía en los titulares. Y por un motivo válido. El 20 de septiembre, el precio alcanzó el nivel más bajo en 12 años y el impacto podría ser devastador.

Se indicaron como factores que contribuyeron a la crisis financiera la cosecha masiva en Brasil y la devaluación del real brasileño, pero la caída en picada de los precios resaltó una realidad que la industria ya conocía. El café no es económicamente sostenible. O al menos no para los productores.

No es la primera vez que los precios del café caen y las adversidades profundas que esto implica afectan gravemente a las comunidades productoras. En 2001, los precios bajaron a USD 0,50 por libra. Aprende más sobre lo que esto significó y cómo la industria falló en introducir mejoras desde entonces.

Read this in English: What Should We Have Learned From The 2001 Coffee Price Crisis?  

finca cafeteraVista desde una finca en las montañas de Espírito Santo, Brasil. Crédito: Ivan Laranjeira Petrich

Entendiendo El Precio Del Café

En los años 80, el precio promedio del café era USD 1,20 USD por libra. En septiembre de 2001, era de USD 0,41 por libra y fue el más bajo en términos reales en 100 años. Fue parte de una caída que duraría cuatro años.

Lo que ocurrió en aquellos cuatro años puede parecer un simple desequilibrio entre la oferta y la demanda. La situación que causó la caída de los precios en 2001 no era muy diferente de lo que está ocurriendo hoy. Durante ese año, la rápida expansión en Vietnam y Brasil junto con un exceso de cosecha de buena calidad provocaron un superávit de café.

Pero detrás de esto está el sector financiero. Mientras los caficultores sufren una verdadera calamidad con cada centavo que baja, los comerciantes obtienen ganancias sustanciosas.

Esto ocurre debido a fallas fundamentales en el mercado del café. En pocas palabras, el Precio C es un modo complejo para comerciar café que genera grandes desigualdades.  

Muchos factores, incluyendo a la especulación, influyen sobre el Precio C, el cual fija las bases para las negociaciones con los productores. Pero los costos de producción de un caficultor no tienen nada que ver con las fluctuaciones del Precio C y, por lo general, los productores tienen márgenes de ganancia muy pequeños. Una caída del Precio C puede significar que el caficultor no está consiguiendo su pequeña ganancia habitual, sino que, en realidad, está perdiendo.

También te puede gustar Coffee Barometer: Es Tiempo de Hablar Menos y Tomar Acción

cerezas verdes de cafeCerezas de café en Guatemala. Crédito: Julio Guevara

¿Por Qué Son Tan Vulnerables Los Pequeños Productores?

Los pequeños caficultores son particularmente vulnerables por varias razones. A pequeña escala, simplemente todo es más costoso. Los caficultores independientes no tienen el mismo poder adquisitivo que las fincas industriales. También es más difícil obtener financiamientos, lo cual implica que los productores no pueden simplemente conseguir un préstamo para pagar las inversiones en la finca cuando sus ingresos son bajos y pagarlo cuando los precios del café aumenten de nuevo.  

Además, el Precio C es en USD, pero los gastos de los productores son a menudo en la moneda local. Una moneda local fuerte o una tasa de cambio inestable pueden tener un impacto negativo enorme.

Para los pequeños productores, la incertidumbre en el precio dificulta la inversión en infraestructura, que mejoraría la calidad y la producción de sus cultivos. La situación se vuelve muy compleja. En los países donde el café representa más de la mitad de los ingresos por exportación, la fluctuación en el Precio C puede tener un impacto devastador.   

Además, debemos considerar los contratos de futuros, en los que las partes llegan al acuerdo de comprar y vender una cantidad de café en el futuro por el Precio C actual. Si bien esto no es algo malo (puede proteger de la fluctuación de precios), ICE fija un contrato de futuros a 17 000 kilogramos (37 500 libras) de café verde. Esto es mucho más de lo que pueden producir anualmente muchos pequeños caficultores, y, por lo tanto, los excluye de este mercado.

cafetalesFinca de café colombiana situada en Ibagué. Crédito: Angie Molina

Los Contratos De Futuros Y El Problema De La Oferta Y La Demanda

En palabras simples, los contratos de futuros están diseñados para garantizar la estabilidad de los precios en un mercado volátil, pero solo las grandes empresas pueden acceder a ellos. Y estos contratos también afectan el precio al que se comercializa el café.

El precio de un contrato a futuro está basado en muchos factores, incluyendo la oferta y la demanda. El problema es que la especulación, es decir, comerciantes que compran y venden café por ganancias a corto plazo, en lugar de usarlo; pueden desequilibrar la oferta y la demanda. Y entonces, los precios se alejan mucho de los costos reales de producción.

Lo que esto significa, en términos más simples, es que los compradores tienen la ventaja de tener precios fijos, pero a los pequeños productores se les paga con el Precio C fluctuante: un precio que luego varía todavía más, porque las grandes empresas firman contratos de futuros.

Asimismo, todo el café del mundo recibe el mismo trato, sin importar la calidad y los diferentes costos de producción. El Precio C es el punto de referencia para el café Arábica verde de calidad comercial y la Robusta se comercializa según el mismo parámetro. Incluso los precios del café de especialidad se basan en el Precio C, además de un premio por la calidad.

Agrégale a esto el riesgo constante del exceso de oferta. Siempre hay café disponible para los compradores y los caficultores tienen un margen escaso para negociar. Aunque estamos presenciando una demanda internacional de café en ascenso, todavía no hemos llegado a la fase en la que la oferta y la demanda aumenten los precios para los productores.

Los caficultores se ven obligados a vender a precios bajos que no representan sus inversiones o el costo de la vida, porque eso es lo que dicta el mercado. Y dado que se trata de un producto agrícola, no pueden simplemente quedarse con su producto hasta que el mercado mejore.

También te puede gustar ¿Qué Efecto Tiene el Mercado C en Los Pequeños Productores de Café?

cafe natural y honeyCafés naturales y honey procesados en Fazendas Klem en Brasil. Crédito: Nicholas Yamada

Los Productores Asumen Todos Los Riesgos

Daniela Maya Fernández es la directora de Cafés Especiales y Comercio Exterior en Grupo Accresco, en Colombia. Ella dice que “los precios locales siempre dependerán de la bolsa de valores, porque los ‘grandes compradores’ venden en el mercado de materias primas. Ellos especulan, su producto principal es financiero y también hay alcistas como el Banco Mundial o el Fondo Monetario Internacional, cuyas acciones siempre influirán en el Precio C”.

“Es una lástima que la materia prima sea la única que fluctúa drásticamente. El precio del café procesado (el grano tostado o la bebida) no cambia tanto como el del café verde”.

“Desde la perspectiva de los productores, es más fácil llevar tu café hacia un lado y recibir la paga de otro. La mayoría de los caficultores ni siquiera sabe de dónde vienen los precios locales y gran parte de las cooperativas u organizaciones nacionales venderán bajo el sistema de materias primas”.

Fernández cree que la conciencia es esencial para cambiar el mercado y mejorar las vidas de los caficultores.

“En mi opinión personal, cada persona debería conocer mejor su realidad, poner las manos a la obra y hacer cambios. Debemos dejar de quejarnos y actuar. Aquellos que tienen la suerte de estudiar y progresar deberían ser altruistas y ayudar a las personas que los rodean. ¡La educación y el conocimiento son claves!”

semillerosSemilleros en una finca en Capucas, Honduras. Crédito: Gisselle Guerra

¿Qué Significó La Crisis De 2001 Para Los Productores?

Gilberto Baraona es un productor de café en El Salvador. Él sufrió en carne propia la crisis de 2001 y está preocupado por la situación actual.

“En 2001, estaba administrando una de las operaciones de café comercial más grandes en Centroamérica: 800 000 bolsas de café, seis fábricas, dos países: El Salvador y Guatemala. Mis clientes eran 7000 caficultores”, me dice.

Los precios bajos de 2001 ni siquiera cubrían los costos de producción de las fincas de café y las consecuencias fueron catastróficas.

“Vi la pérdida de empleos, los beneficios entraron en quiebra y los caficultores abandonaron sus fincas”, me explicó Baraona.

En Vietnam, había informes de caficultores que vendían lo que poseían para satisfacer a los cobradores de deudas. Algunos caficultores en México murieron mientras intentaban entrar a EE. UU. ilegalmente, luego de abandonar sus fincas. En Colombia, según los informes, algunos pasaron a cultivar coca. Los productores en todo el mundo se vieron en la necesidad tomar medidas desesperadas solo para sobrevivir.

También te puede gustar Un Mercado Volátil: La Economía de los Precios del Café en el Mundo

cerezas de cafe madurasCerezas de café maduras en Fazendas Klem en Brazil. Crédito: Nicholas Yamada

¿Cuáles Son Las Causa Las Crisis Del Café?

Primero que todo, ¿por qué hubo un superávit de café? ¿Y por qué los caficultores simplemente no cultivaron otro producto después de 2001?

A partir de los años 80, algunas ONG y algunos gobiernos han promovido en ciertos países productores el cultivo de mayores cantidades de café. Además, en 1986, Vietnam llevó a cabo reformas económicas que, entre las novedades, permitían la existencia de empresas privadas. Para finales de los años 90, este país ocupaba el segundo puesto después de Brasil en la producción de café a nivel mundial. El subsiguiente exceso de oferta contribuyó de forma directa a la crisis de 2001. Las fuerzas de mercado neoliberales separaron el precio del café de su valor real.

A medida que crece la oferta mundial de granos verdes, la especulación lleva a caídas drásticas en los precios. Sin dinero para invertir en mano de obra, materiales e infraestructura, es probable que los productores ofrezcan en el mercado granos de calidad más baja. Esto baja aún más los precios.

Por ejemplo, un productor puede decidir hacer recortes en contratar trabajadores calificados. Esto podría resultar en cerezas de calidad inconsistente. Asimismo, tal vez no puedan invertir en variedades de café de alta calidad, lo que significa que la calidad general en el mercado sea más baja. Dado que se agrupa todo el café como una materia prima, esto puede disminuir el precio total.

El ciclo se repite y los productores están atrapados por las inversiones que no pueden recuperar.

paisajeUna finca cafetera en las montañas de Espírito Santo, Brasil. Crédito: Ivan Laranjeira Petrich

Se Necesita Una Solución, Pero No Es Fácil

Ricardo Arenas, presidente de la Asociación Nacional de Café de Guatemala (Anacafé), cree que la industria necesita un líder definido para que haya un cambio.

“La OIC debería ser el líder clave, dado que es la Organización Internacional del Café y representa a casi todos los países productores y exportadores de café, ¡así como también los países importadores de todo el mundo!”, me cuenta.

“El Consejo de la OIC debería ser la plataforma perfecta para discutir la crisis del café. También debería diseñar y ejecutar las acciones necesarias para trabajar junto con todos los actores de la cadena del café”.

“Es necesario en la industria cafetera, donde los negocios suponen billones [de dólares] y los productores son pobres, porque les pagan mal, ¿tal vez peor que hace 30 años? Y por increíble que parezca, de cada taza de café que se vende a USD 2,50, el mesero recibe una propina de USD 0,25, pero el productor, quien tiene toda la responsabilidad y asume el riesgo mayor, recibe 4 centavos”.

Pero después de la crisis de precios del café en 2001, la OIC intentó a hacer cambios. Entonces, ¿por qué se repite la misma historia?

beneficio de cafeBeneficio Lirios de Belén en Guatemala. Crédito: Ana Valencia

¿Por Qué Hemos Fracasado En Prevenir Las Crisis de Precios?

En febrero de 2002, la OIC introdujo su Programa de Mejora de la Calidad del Café. El proyecto incluía un compromiso a “promover medidas para diversificar la excesiva dependencia del café por parte de los productores mediante la promoción de actividades adicionales o alternativas y una segmentación mayor del producto cafetero”.

En resumen, cultivar otros productos además del café podría estabilizar el mercado brindando protección cuando los precios caen.

Pero en realidad, ningún intento de frenar la caída de los precios desde que la OIC dejó de regularlos en 1989 ha tenido éxito. Al utilizar simplemente una herramienta basada en una falsa oferta y demanda y que valora más la economía de mercado que el costo de vida de los productores, el precio seguirá siendo inestable.

Además, analicemos los aspectos prácticos de la diversificación. El café tarda cinco años en producir frutos. No permite que sea fácil cambiar rápidamente a otro cultivo. Asimismo, la diversificación requiere de nuevos materiales, nuevos conocimientos y nuevos contratos comerciales.

Muchas regiones productoras de café se han dedicado a él por generaciones. La tierra y los recursos están preparados para soportar este cultivo y los costos físicos, psíquicos y económicos de pasar a otro producto no se deberían ignorar.

Si bien la OIC motiva a diversificar, lo que necesitan los caficultores son suficientes ingresos para poder tomar decisiones a largo plazo para sí mismos.

En el contexto de la supervivencia del día a día, en el que muchos productores se enfrentan a decisiones reales de si mandar a sus hijos a la escuela o invertir en el mantenimiento mínimo de su finca, la idea de volver a plantar su tierra con un cultivo distinto no es realista. Cuando los precios caen por debajo del costo de producción, los caficultores luchan por alimentar a sus familias, por no hablar de las inversiones para experimentar con un cultivo secundario.   

También te puede interesar Esto es lo Que Cuesta Producir Café en Latinoamérica

arbol de cafeÁrboles de café en una finca en Guatemala. Crédito: Julio Guevara

Una Situación Más Grave Que La De 2001

Gilberto Baraona sostiene que la situación es todavía más grave hoy que en 2001.

“En el caso de El Salvador, donde la mayoría de los cultivos de los caficultores se envían como cerezas a los beneficios, el precio que obtienen es de USD 0,47 por libra. Solamente la recolección del café cuesta USD 0,45. Entonces, si los precios [Precio C] bajan a USD 0,90, no se recolectará el café de las fincas. No habrá una cosecha de café, no habrá trabajo. Los productores deben pagar [a los acreedores]. Se abandonarán las fincas por completo”.

Él destaca que, en 2001 USD 0,50 tenían un mayor poder adquisitivo que USD 1 en 2019.

“En 2001, un Big Mac costaba USD 2,52. En 2018, el precio subió a más del doble, a USD 5,50”.

Ricardo Arenas está de acuerdo y enumera las cuestiones en juego en la actualidad.

“No es nada, comparado con la crisis de 2001. Tenemos la tormenta perfecta: los peores precios; los efectos de la roya en el café, que ha destruido alrededor del 50 % de las parcelas; la pérdida de interés por parte de los jóvenes en trabajar en el café; los efectos del cambio climático”.

granos de cafeSeleccionando granos de café en una finca en Brasil. Crédito: Julio Guevara

Evitando Un Desastre

El 17 de septiembre de 2018, la OIC celebró su reunión bienal en Londres.

El Foro Mundial de Productores de Café (FMPC) celebró una conferencia de prensa antes de la reunión, en la que los productores dijeron que esperaban que la reunión de la OIC se enfocara en los precios bajos.

Los productores además firmaron una carta abierta a la OIC, en la cual manifestaron que “los productores de café de todo el mundo están enfrentando su [sic] peor situación en décadas, provocada por la crisis y por los precios internacionales extremadamente bajos. Hoy, el desequilibrio en la cadena de valor del café y el proceso de pauperización de los productores de café se encuentran a niveles que no dudamos en definir trágicos”.

Además de ser presidente de Anacafé, Ricardo Arenas es presidente del FMPC. De la reunión, me dijo: “Nosotros, los productores esperamos una acción seria y honesta de parte de todos los actores de la cadena del café, dado que todas las partes deberían ser responsables”.

“Debemos entrar en contacto inmediatamente con los CEO de las empresas más importantes de la cadena de café. Nosotros, los productores de café, redactamos y enviamos una carta pidiendo una reunión, junto con una copia al director ejecutivo de la OIC”.

“Con urgencia, debemos empezar una campaña pública que se dirija a los consumidores de todo el mundo para concientizar sobre lo que está ocurriendo. [Ellos deben enterarse] de que el café podría desaparecer en poco tiempo. [Esto se debe a que] los productores no se sostienen económicamente, ni socialmente y ambientalmente”.

 panorama en origenVista panorámica de la región Sul de Minas donde se cultiva café, Brasil. Crédito: Nicholas Yamada

Entonces, ¿Qué Puedes Hacer?

Es justo decir que los problemas de fijar los precios del café son complejos. Incluso para tratar de comprender el Precio C, puede que se deba investigar un poco acerca del ámbito de la economía. Pero, tanto si eres un consumidor como si trabajas en la industria, aprender sobre el mercado del café es un gran primer paso para mejorar las condiciones.

Pregunta en tu tienda de café sobre cómo adquieren el producto y apoya a aquellas que emiten declaraciones de transparencia. Habla con la gente que te rodea e intercambia conocimientos sobre los impactos de los precios bajos en los productores.

Implementar el comercio directo o asociarse con los comerciantes que trabajan estrechamente con los productores puede ayudar. Mediante la promoción de una comunicación transparente y más abierta, podemos sacar al café del mundo de la economía abstracta.

Esto no es suficiente para garantizar la seguridad económica de los productores, pero es el primer paso hacia la introducción de cambios a largo plazo.

¿Quieres aprender más? Lee La Importancia en la Transparencia del Precio del Café Verde

Escrito por Hazel Boydell.

Traducido por Laura Fornero. Traducción editada por María José Parra.

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Jameson Wants To Coffee Up That Whiskey For You

Jameson Irish Whiskey is bringing together two great tastes that taste great together (more or less) with their brand new Jameson Cold Brew.

The recently-announced “spirit drink” as the bottle refers to it—as opposed to a vodka drink, a lager drink, or a cider drink—is a blend of “triple-distilled Jameson Irish Whiskey” and “Fairtrade cold brew coffee extract sourced from Arabica beans in Colombia and Brazil,” per Liquor.com. The bottle even has that little Fairtrade logo on it.

The flavor is described as “distinctive, bold, and natural with refreshing cold brew coffee impact followed by charred wood from the pot still whiskey contribution on palate,” with “intense rich coffee bean aromatics combined with vanilla nuttiness of Jameson.”

Sitting at a pretty drinkable 70 proof, Jameson Cold Brew is expected to retail at $33, which is probably about as much as I’d be willing to pay for this sort of coffee-based gimmick, and I’m the target audience.

Alas, it is unlikely that Jameson Cold Brew is in my American future, as the very limited release—only 3,000 bottles made—is currently only available on the Emerald Isle, somewhat ironic considering the last time I was in Ireland I could rarely find a filter coffee, much less a cold brew. According to Liquor, the new whiskey is only available for purchase at Jameson’s Dublin distillery and the Dublin Airport, but a quick Google search found that Obriens appears to be selling bottles of Jameson Cold Brew for €28.50. And they’ll deliver anywhere on the country.

But should I be lucky enough to get my hands on a bottle, I know just the mixer.

Zac Cadwalader is the news editor at Sprudge Media Network and a staff writer based in Dallas. Read more Zac Cadwalader on Sprudge.

Top image via Jameson

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The New Rules Of Coffee East Coast Book Tour!

Tour! Tour! Tour! East coast Sprudge readers and traveling coffee enthusiasts, join us at one of these exciting upcoming appearances in support of The New Rules of Coffee: A Modern Guide for Everyone from Sprudge co-founders Jordan Michelman and Zachary Carlsen. We’d love to see you at any or all of the events below, so give us an RSVP via Facebook and pick up your tickets today (where applicable).

Tah!

NYC

On Thursday, October 11th join us for a special live taping of the Taste Podcast at Counter Culture Coffee (376 Broome Street). This is a ticketed event—buy tickets here—and the price includes a signed copy of the book, a spot at the taping, and delicious treats from the team at Counter Culture. Check out past episodes of the Taste podcast featuring Christina Tosi, Peter Meehan, Saimin Norsat, and many more.

Thursday 10/11 at Counter Culture Coffee NYC TC 6-8pm TICKETS

On Saturday, October 13th join us at the 2018 New York Coffee Festival for a special presentation of The New Rules of Coffee happening at The Lab Stage One. There we’ll be talking about the creation process of our book, reading select passages, and taking your sure-to-be-cheeky questions in front of a live audience. Admission is included with entry to the New York Coffee Festival.

Saturday 10/13 at New York Coffee Festival 3:15 PM TICKETS

On Wednesday, October 17th join us in Brooklyn at the stunning new Stumptown Coffee Roasters cafe in Cobble Hill (212 Pacific Street, Brooklyn) for a book signing meet n’ greet from 1pm-3pm. There we’ll be joined by the lovely folks at Books Are Magic, and we’ll be personally signing books, taking your questions, and inquiring as to your favorite local pizza slice spot. This event is free and open to the public, with books for sale on-site.

Wednesday 10/17 at Stumptown Cobble Hill Brooklyn 1pm-3pm RSVP

PHILADELPHIA

On Thursday, October 18th we’ve got two stunning events in Philadelphia, PA! To kick things off, join us at Reanimator Coffee‘s Kensington roastworks (1523 E Susquehanna Ave) for a book signing meet n’ greet and intimate presentation of some of our favorite chapters. Come enjoy cappuccino with us and get your very own signed copy of the book. This event is free and open to the public, with books for sale on-site.

Thursday 10/18 at Reanimator Coffee Kensington 2pm-4pm RSVP

On the evening of Thursday, October 18th join us at the Elixr Coffee cafe in Center City (207 S Sydenham St) for an evening of coffee sports, giveaways, and a presentation from The New Rules of Coffee. Guests can participate in a cup tasters challenge, with prizes courtesy of Elixr Coffee, plus enjoy refreshments and pick up signed copies of The New Rules of Coffee. We’ll be there to take Q&A and read you a few of our favorite sections of the book. This event is free and open to the public, with books for sale on site.

Thursday 10/18 at Elixr Coffee Center City 7pm-10pm RSVP

DC

On Saturday, October 20th join us in Washington DC for an event with Peregrine Espresso and Solid State Books at Small Planes Coffee (2400 T Street NE) for an evening of coffee and conversation. Starting at 5pm Peregrine is hosting a city-wide roaster cupping featuring a dozen or so roasters from across the DMV. Then at 7pm, join us for a live conversation on The New Rules of Coffee moderated by God In A Cup author and New York Times/Washington Post/Sprudge contributor Michaele Weissman. Guests can pick up a signed copy of the book onsite and there will be light Q&A following the event.

Saturday 10/20 at Small Planes Coffee with Peregrine Espresso and Solid State Books 5pm-9pm RSVP

And to cap things off, on Sunday, October 21st join us for a very special live presentation with Smithsonian Associates at The Ripley Center (1100 Jefferson Dr SW). This is a ticketed presentation event, and guests will enjoy delicious coffee courtesy of Counter Culture Coffee, plus receive a signed copy of The New Rules of Coffee.

Sunday 10/21 at The Ripley Center with Smithsonian Associates and Counter Culture Coffee 1pm-4pm Buy ticketsRSVP

 

MANY MORE EVENTS ANNOUNCED SOON—CHECK SPRUDGE.COM/BOOKTOUR FOR A COMPLETE LISTING

Want to book Sprudge for an event in your city? Drop us a line and we’ll set it up! 

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Coffee Origins: The Distinct Acidity of San Marcos, Guatemala

Guatemala has a reputation for producing excellent coffees. This is one of the most climatically diverse regions in the world, with rich volcanic soil that is great for coffee farming.

The small Central American country has eight coffee-producing regions, of which San Marcos is the oldest, wettest, and warmest. Let’s take a look at the region, its coffee profile, and common processing methods.

You may also like Origin Spotlight: Exploring Ecuador’s Specialty Coffee

view from coffee farmView from a farm in San Marcos. Credit: Anacafé

A Region of Microclimates

In the mountainous west of the country, San Marcos is known in Guatemala as “the place where volcanoes awake”. It is home to Tajumulco, the highest volcano in Central America, as well as several others.

The hills and the influence of the Pacific Ocean create microclimates within the tropical atmosphere. Rachel Eubanks from Balzac Brothers tells me, “San Marcos includes the two highest volcanoes in Guatemala, the Pacific coast to the south, and part of the Sierra Madre de Chiapas mountain range, making this department unique in its variety of climates”.

The rainy season begins early here, arriving by mid-April and lasting until mid-November. This means that coffee plants bloom faster than in other regions. Humidity in San Marcos is between 70–80% and the altitude ranges from 4,600–6,000 ft. Coffee is cultivated between 1,300 to 1,800 m.a.s.l.

Learn more: Barista Guide: 8 Different Coffee Regions of Guatemala

Coffee plantsCoffee plants ready to be replanted. Credit: Anacafé

The Distinct Acidity of San Marcos Coffee

Coffees from this region have delicate floral notes with pronounced acidity and good body. Rachel says that “coffees from San Marcos tend to be overlooked compared to coffees from Huehuetenango and Antigua. Yet with the region’s high elevation and abundant rainfall, plus the soil’s rich mineral content from centuries of volcanic ash, coffees from San Marcos tend to be known for their distinct acidity.”

Don Angel de León is a producer from Las Merceditas in San Rafael Pie de la Cuesta. He tells me that coffee from San Marcos has “delicate floral notes in its aroma and taste”, and that these characteristics are thanks to the Pacific influence and unique microclimates of the region.

Bourbon, Caturra, and Catuai coffee beans are grown in the San Marcos region, but Don Angel tells me that he also grows Robusta, Sarchimor, and Icatú.

Laurina is a special offering from the area. A natural mutant of Bourbon found on Reunion Island in Madagascar, Balzac Brothers source it from Finca Nueva Granada, in San Marcos. Rachel says, “In the cup, Laurina has a floral fragrance, milk chocolate body, sparkling lime acidity, and a cacao nib finish.”

Angela de Coto is a coffee producer and exporter at Third Wave Coffee Source USA. She tells me that she loves a washed Pacamara from the Finca Platanillo coffee farm in San Marcos. “It has a very distinguished eucalyptus [flavor], with elderberry flavors, and hints of old spice”, she says.

Ripe coffeeRipe coffee cherries at a Guatemalan coffee farm. Credit:  Anacafé

Coffee Production & Processing in San Marcos

As in most of Guatemala, coffee farms in San Marcos are small. Hand-picked coffee is the standard here. According to Anacafé’s Green Book, 98% of the coffee in Guatemala is shade grown, and most of the coffee here is washed Arabica.

Washed processing highlights the acidic profile of the coffee. Growing it under shade allows it to ripen more slowly and develop sweeter, more complex flavors. It also supports a more diverse ecosystem.

Rachel tells me, “Most of the producers we work with focus on cultivating shade grown, fully washed coffees. The coffees we source from two primary producers in this region focus on utilizing local spring water to de-pulp the coffees and drying them on patios or in low-heat dryers, depending on how long the rainy season lasts.”

The rainfall is unpredictable during harvest season, so it’s normal for producers here to finish drying coffee in a mechanical dryer.

Don Angel tells me some producers build greenhouses with raised beds to dry their coffee, but that this isn’t the standard. He says, “We process our own coffee. The smallest producers who are associated to cooperatives, they also process their coffee but they do it through the cooperative. Normally the cooperatives have their own wet mill, so producers just take their cherries there.”

Coffee dryingCoffee drying in raised beds at a farm in Guatemala. Credit: Anacafé

There is also a small amount of other types of processing in Guatemala. Rachel tells me that “while natural processed and honey processed coffees aren’t as popular in Guatemala as other Central American countries like Costa Rica, this [type of] coffee really stands out in the cup, presenting notes of pineapple and blueberry.” She predicts that these types of processing will become more popular.

Angela tells me that Third Wave Coffee Source USA started doing some honeys and natural processed coffees with great results. “The results were amazing. For varietals like the Geshas and Pacamaras, the flavors that came out were very interesting and delicious.”

She also mentions that they have been experimenting with yeast and enzymes, but that they hadn’t yet found a method using these elements that they liked. “We have yet to find a sweet spot where we can notice a clear difference between using these processes and the regular washed coffee,” she says.

Learn more in How Naturals & Honeys Are Changing The Face of Guatemalan Coffees

Picking cherriesPicking cherries by hand. Credit: Anacafé

The variety of microclimates and the rich volcanic soil in San Marco help to create coffees with distinctive acidity. Add to that the diversity of varieties, from Laurina to Gesha/Geisha, and different processing methods, and you have an exciting variety of coffees to choose from.

Next time you’re in a specialty coffee shop or looking to buy new beans, why not try one from San Marcos?

Enjoyed this? Check out Origin Spotlight: Papua New Guinea’s Specialty Coffee

Written by Alejandra Muñoz Hernández.

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