Tuesday, July 4, 2017

What Are The 6 Different Kinds of Tea?

There are over 20,000 different teas in the world, according to Mary Lou and Robert J. Heiss in The Tea Enthusiast’s Handbook: A Guide to the World’s Best Teas. But if you’re interested in learning about specialty tea, there are six main kinds you’ll want to learn about first.

So make yourself a brew and get ready to learn the difference between your matcha, oolong, and English Breakfast teas.

SEE ALSO: Why Specialty Tea and Coffee Are Siblings, Not Strangers

white teaWhite teas are the least processed of all teas Credit: Kaith Sandoval

Tea vs Tisane

Stroll down the tea aisle of any supermarket, or even wander through a specialty tea shop, and you’ll see a wide variety of teas: peppermint, chamomile, oolong, Rooibos…

But not all of these are actually teas. Some are just tisanes.

Tea comes from the Camellia sinensis bush. Any beverage that isn’t made with this plant isn’t strictly speaking tea. Raspberry tea, hibiscus tea, ginger tea… delicious though they may be, they’re misnamed.

teaTisanes are delicious herbal infusions.  Credit: Sonder Coffee & Tea

A Quick Note on Tea Varieties

Camellia sinensis is the tea species but, much like with Arabica coffee, you’ll find varieties and cultivars. We won’t be looking at tea varieties in great detail in this article, but we will quickly cover the basics.

There are three main commercial tea varieties: Sinensis, Assamica, and Cambodiensis. Sinensis, according to Royal Tea NY, is better suited to cold climates than the other varieties. It originates from China, but you’ll also find it in Japan, Taiwan, India, and Nepal. Assamica is mostly found in India, Sri Lanka, and Africa, despite originally coming from Southeast Asia. And Cambodiensis is common in Cambodia and Java, but you’ll rarely consume a pure brew of it: the plant is more commonly used in hybrids

There are also many sub-varieties, cultivars, and, of course, indigenous varieties that are not widely commercially consumed. And just like with coffee, not all tea varieties are suited to all tea-producing climates.

teaJust like in coffee, there are different tea varieties. Credit:Ankori Tea

The 6 Main Tea Categories

Before you start exploring the world of tea varieties, however, you need to understand the main categories of processed tea: black, oolong, fermented/pu’erh, green, yellow, and white.

This is the first question a tea seller or assistant will ask you when you go to buy tea. What’s more, these categories have a dramatic impact on the tea’s taste and ideal brewing temperature.

And these categories all comes down to oxidation.

Coffee roasters will recognise oxidation as the Maillard Reaction, but it’s controlled very differently with tea. A chemical reaction, it browns the leaves, adding aroma and flavours – in particular, according to Tony Gebely in World of Tea/Tea: A User’s Guide, theaflavins and thearubigins.

Theaflavins, Gebely explains, add briskness, brightness, and a yellow colour. Thearubigins add depth, body, and a reddish colour.

The process may be stopped, encouraged, or otherwise controlled to affect the final cup of tea. So let’s take a look at the different ways this happens.

tea

Pu’erh Dali Tuo has a sweet and fruity taste. Credit: Ankori Tea

Black/Red Tea

Black tea – which Kasim Ali, Owner of Waterloo Tea and Founder of the Tea Brewers Cup, tells me is sold as “red tea” in the Chinese market  – is the most oxidised of all teas. The moment leaves are picked, they begin to wilt/wither and oxidise. To create black tea, the leaves are often crushed or rolled to speed up the process.

The flavour profile is strong; as the most oxidised, it has lots of depth and body. You would also brew it at the highest temperatures. Kasim Ali recommends 95–100℃/203–212℉. And much like coffee, the higher the temperature, the more bitter you can expect the brew to taste.

Some of the most famous black teas include the English Breakfast blend and Earl Grey, which has been flavoured with bergamot.

It’s also the most widely consumed tea in the Western world, and there are regionally specific tea traditions. These include India’s chai (black tea with milk and spices) and the British tradition of adding milk and/or sugar – something that often bemuses the rest of Europe.

black teaBlack tea is made from completely oxidized leaves of Camellia Sinensis. Credit: Tea Angle

Oolong/Wulong Tea

The only difference between oolong and wulong tea is the name. Oolong is the most recognised in Western countries, yet linguists would say that wulong is the most accurate romanisation of the original Chinese kanji.

Oolong tea is also perhaps one of the biggest categories of tea: according to Max Falkowitz in Serious Eats, oxidation can run between 8 and 85%. This means you will also come across vastly different flavours.

All oolong tea processing begins with some form of encouraging oxidation, such as bruising the edges of the leaves. They also end with some “fixing”, the process by which oxidation is paused, such as by pan firing, steaming, or baking. (Essentially, by adding heat.) However, Gebely states that the process between the initial oxidation and the fixing will vary.

When brewing, Kasim suggests that medium oxidised teas are brewed at 85℃/185℉, while lower oxidised teas should be brewed at 80℃/176℉.

oolong teaJingmai Oolong. Credit: theoolongdrunk

Green Tea

Green tea is only very lightly oxidised. After the initial withering, the leaves are quickly fixed. It tends to have a lighter profile and it also goes off much quicker than black or oolong.

Green tea is well-associated with Asia, but there are significant differences between offerings from different Asian countries. To start with, Mary Lou and Robert J. Heiss emphasise that Chinese and Japanese green tea tastes vastly different thanks to the variety and terroir (The Tea Enthusiast’s Handbook: A Guide to the World’s Best Teas).

Then you have the way the green teas are processed, prepared, and brewed. This results in categories such as sencha, matcha, longjing and bilochun.

Ali recommends brewing Chinese green teas at 75℃/167℉, but Japanese green teas at 65℃/149℉. “Some Japanese greens will brew closer to 50℃ (122℉),” he adds.

Matcha, which is ground into a powder, is perhaps the most well-known green tea thanks to Starbucks “matcha lattes”. Japan’s most high-quality green tea category, it is ground into a powder and so the quickest to become stale. It’s also the tea consumed in the traditional Japanese tea ceremony.

teaHui Ming green tea, from the region of Zhenjiang in China. Credit: Ankori Tea

Yellow Tea

Yellow tea is a slightly obscure but prized type of tea produced in China. It’s similar to green tea, but goes through a yellowing phase. Kerri Shadid explains in The Daily Tea that, after fixing, the tea is wrapped in cloth which allows slight oxidation to occur a second time. It is then slowly charcoal dried, fixing it one final time.

Shadid describes this tea as “more aromatic and ‘mature’”, and not possessing the “astringency” that green tea can have. She recommends steeping it for one to three minutes in 170–180 ℉ (77–82℃) water.

Korea also produces a tea described as “yellow tea”, but many tea professionals consider it to be different to Chinese yellow tea.

teaYellow tea is smooth and aromatic with a sweet taste. Credit: Ankori Tea

White Tea

White tea is often described as unoxidised, but this is inaccurate since exposure to air will result in some oxidation. It’s made mainly with the young buds of the tea plant, which are still covered in white hairs, which is where the name comes from.

The flavour is the lightest, and often described as the most complex and subtle. It can be fruity and floral.

teaSome aromatic notes that we can find in a cup of white tea: honey, peach, chocolate, vanilla, citrus, white flowers or melon. Credit: Ankori Tea

Fermented/Pu’erh Tea

Oxidation is sometimes referred to as fermentation, but that is incorrect. However, there is a category of teas that are fermented – with Chinese Pu’erh as the most famous variety.

These teas are fermented after having been oxidised and then fixed. This also means that you can allow the leaves to age, much like with wine.

Note: this is different to Kombucha, which is fermented after the (often very sugary) tea has already been brewed.

teaSheng Pu’erh Credit: Ankori Tea

Just like with coffee, no two teas are the same. The variety, terroir, production, processing, and brewing all impact on the final flavour of the cup. Yet if you want to learn more about specialty tea, start by trying these six different processes.

Written by Tanya Newton.

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